radiator replacement
I have a 1997 gulfstream 32ft class a 80,000 km 460 ford V8 on a F53 chassis, I think I should replace the rad before I do any real long runs, I.E mtn terraine etc , and I tow with a car dolly a Ho...
Forum Discussion
Just pulled the radiator out from the bottom of my RV. I have a 1996 Ford F53 chasis with the hydrolic leveling system. After chocking the wheels I placed 2 3 inch blocks under the front jacks. I lowered the rear Jack's just enough to to touch the ground. Then I fully raised the front. This brought my front wheels about 3 inches off the ground. I then place 4 jack stands under the frame.
From the dog house I removed the two upper bolts holding the fan shroud on. Then I rocked the fan shroud side to side with upward force to release it from clips on the bottom of the radiator. Hang the fan on the water pump pulley.
Then from the front engine access I unscrewed the two upper bolts holding the AC condenser in place. Don't try to fully remove these bolts. Once they feel loose pull on them. They screw into tips that insert into the upper radiator mounts that are rubber. BTW those rubber mounts are no longer available for sale so try to reach up and remove them from below the vehicle. Put them in a safe place.
From the underside of the vehicle remove the lower radiator support bolt. 2 on each side. Leave radiator support in place.
Remove stabilizer bar and order new bushings for the reinstall as yours have probably disintegrated like mine. One nut on each side and 2 bolts in the middle if I'm not mistaken.
Remove fan from water pump by removing 4 bolts. Good time to replace fan clutch as well.
Loosen alternator tension bolt and remove belt.
Remove lower pulley from wat I believe is the air pump. 1st device counter clockwise from alternator. I removed 2 of the hose from the air pump as well in order to push the lines out of the way
Remove upper and lower radiator hoses.
Remove all transmission lines and coolant lines.
Remove fill pipe from front of vehicle by loosening inner hose clamp.
At this point I carefully pulled the bottom of the radiator towards the rear of the vehicle making sure to watch for any lines that may still be connected. Once pulled back I pushed up on the radiator and slid the bottom radiator support towards the front of the vehicle. I secured it vertically in place against the AC condenser.
Then I returned the radiator to its original vertical position. Radiator should stay vertical for the rest of removal. I pulled the passenger side of the radiator all the way back to towards the alternator and air pump then lowered it out through the frame rails. Be careful not to bend any of your transmission lines.
Honestly it took me about 3 hours to figure out how to get the radiator through the frame rails. There was only about .25 inch of clearance. Removing all but the lower air pump bracket bolts may help significantly. Loosening the lower bolt so you can manipulate the air pump where you need it may help.
I also replaced the water pump while I was in there. I don't know how you all did that from the dog house. You have to move almost everything with a pulley out of the way to access the water pump.
My lowest quote for the radiator alone was $3k including an aluminium radiator and 10-12 hours labor. I called 10 radiator shops and all but 2 wouldn't touch the F53 radiator saying it was too labor intensive.
I ordered a custom copper and brass radiator from Radiator Supply House in Oregon for $1300. I guess they build them frequently for the F53. They gave me a 12 day build time. It was supposed to be delivered Friday and its Sunday now. I called them on Friday. They said it would ship out that day by end of business and they would email tracking info. I never got an email. So far no good. Going to call tomorrow to see if they'll expedite shipping. I just hope it's no bigger than the stock copper plastic one or I'll be struggling on the install.
I'll post how the install goes
This project all started after a trip to the Sequoias. Motor was running warm on the L of normal all of the way home at highway speeds. Yet dropped down to the N and O while stuck in LA traffic for 3 hours. In hindsight it was probably the lower radiator hose collapsing at higher RPMs. Upon removal it looked like the inner spring moved to far back in the hose allowing collapse just before the radiator.
Anyways day after the trip I started up the RV to turn it around in the driveway and the coolant was dumping down both sides of the radiator. I'm pretty sure I blew the rubber gaskets on the plastic radiator tanks. Just thankful I made it home safely.
Append
From the dog house I removed the two upper bolts holding the fan shroud on. Then I rocked the fan shroud side to side with upward force to release it from clips on the bottom of the radiator. Hang the fan on the water pump pulley.
Then from the front engine access I unscrewed the two upper bolts holding the AC condenser in place. Don't try to fully remove these bolts. Once they feel loose pull on them. They screw into tips that insert into the upper radiator mounts that are rubber. BTW those rubber mounts are no longer available for sale so try to reach up and remove them from below the vehicle. Put them in a safe place.
From the underside of the vehicle remove the lower radiator support bolt. 2 on each side. Leave radiator support in place.
Remove stabilizer bar and order new bushings for the reinstall as yours have probably disintegrated like mine. One nut on each side and 2 bolts in the middle if I'm not mistaken.
Remove fan from water pump by removing 4 bolts. Good time to replace fan clutch as well.
Loosen alternator tension bolt and remove belt.
Remove lower pulley from wat I believe is the air pump. 1st device counter clockwise from alternator. I removed 2 of the hose from the air pump as well in order to push the lines out of the way
Remove upper and lower radiator hoses.
Remove all transmission lines and coolant lines.
Remove fill pipe from front of vehicle by loosening inner hose clamp.
At this point I carefully pulled the bottom of the radiator towards the rear of the vehicle making sure to watch for any lines that may still be connected. Once pulled back I pushed up on the radiator and slid the bottom radiator support towards the front of the vehicle. I secured it vertically in place against the AC condenser.
Then I returned the radiator to its original vertical position. Radiator should stay vertical for the rest of removal. I pulled the passenger side of the radiator all the way back to towards the alternator and air pump then lowered it out through the frame rails. Be careful not to bend any of your transmission lines.
Honestly it took me about 3 hours to figure out how to get the radiator through the frame rails. There was only about .25 inch of clearance. Removing all but the lower air pump bracket bolts may help significantly. Loosening the lower bolt so you can manipulate the air pump where you need it may help.
I also replaced the water pump while I was in there. I don't know how you all did that from the dog house. You have to move almost everything with a pulley out of the way to access the water pump.
My lowest quote for the radiator alone was $3k including an aluminium radiator and 10-12 hours labor. I called 10 radiator shops and all but 2 wouldn't touch the F53 radiator saying it was too labor intensive.
I ordered a custom copper and brass radiator from Radiator Supply House in Oregon for $1300. I guess they build them frequently for the F53. They gave me a 12 day build time. It was supposed to be delivered Friday and its Sunday now. I called them on Friday. They said it would ship out that day by end of business and they would email tracking info. I never got an email. So far no good. Going to call tomorrow to see if they'll expedite shipping. I just hope it's no bigger than the stock copper plastic one or I'll be struggling on the install.
I'll post how the install goes
This project all started after a trip to the Sequoias. Motor was running warm on the L of normal all of the way home at highway speeds. Yet dropped down to the N and O while stuck in LA traffic for 3 hours. In hindsight it was probably the lower radiator hose collapsing at higher RPMs. Upon removal it looked like the inner spring moved to far back in the hose allowing collapse just before the radiator.
Anyways day after the trip I started up the RV to turn it around in the driveway and the coolant was dumping down both sides of the radiator. I'm pretty sure I blew the rubber gaskets on the plastic radiator tanks. Just thankful I made it home safely.
Append
