Waterless coolant
I have an older Bounder with a 460 engine I just had to have a water pump replaced and all new coolant put in is it worth putting in the waterless coolant ? I've heard about it but don't know if i...
Forum Discussion
Gjac wrote:
Will the waterless coolant do anything to remove the mineral buildup inside your old radiator? Is the specific heat transfer greater than 60-40 water and antifreeze? If not I don't think it would be worth it for an old radiator.
Here's a LOOONG article about (a specif) brand of waterless coolant -
http://www.norosion.com/evanstest.htm.
I do not know if "your" bend of "Waterless Coolant" is the same thing or not, but it gives some things to think about
"SUMMARY OF FINDINGS
Conversion costs of $259 if you do it yourself, or over $400 if you pay a shop to do it.
97%+ removal of all previous coolant is mandatory in order to prevent corrosion.
Inhibitor deposition occurs on aluminum surfaces, which could cause issues in some radiators.
Engines run 115-140oF hotter (at the cylinder heads) with Evans products.
Stabilized coolant temps are increased by 31-48oF, versus straight water with No-Rosion.
Reprogramming ECU fan temp settings is mandatory to prevent the fan from running continuously.
Specific heat capacity of Evans waterless products ranges from 0.64 to 0.68, or about half that of water.
Engine octane requirement is increased by 5-7 numbers.
Computerized ignition must retard engine timing by 8-10o to prevent trace knock.
Engine horsepower is reduced by 4-5%.
Accelerated recession of non-hardened valve seats in older engines is possible, due to brinelling.
Viscosity is 3-4 times higher than what OEM water pumps are rated to accommodate.
Coolant flow rate through radiator tubes is reduced by 20-25% due to the higher viscosity.
Race tracks prohibit Evans products because they are flammable and slippery when spilled."
