Hey all-We have a 2005 Holiday Rambler Ambassador. We left it in storage, completely unhooked from everything, for just over three weeks. I left the refrigerator ON, running on LP, not realizing that it requires charged-up house batteries to operate. And, I forgot to use the battery disconnect, so when we got back, the house batteries were dead and nothing 12 volt was working, including the refrigerator. I first hooked up to shore power; then, probably 10 minutes later, I figured the battery acid level was probably low, and was it ever. Maybe completely dry, I don't know. But, I filled them all up. The EMS started bulk charging the batteries (though I guess it would have started when I went on shore power, before I filled the water back up). As of right now, about an hour after getting back, it's still bulk charging, and showing 13.4 volts.The refrigerator has shown no signs of life at all. While working outside I noticed a red glow coming from the outside refrigerator compartment. I have had the Norcold recall/fix done, and the red light on the little plastic box they installed as part of the fix, is on. There is a "refer" fuse in the front distribution panel, which I assume is for the refrigerator; it's good.So, I'd be interested in your thoughts on this. I'm thinking that I may have fried the house batteries, but I can't see why the refrigerator would be damaged. It just...shut off, right? We're parked on the level, so I don't see that as a problem.Anyway, how to proceed from here? What to watch for? Any risk (of fire or damage) to let the batteries keep on bulk charging? Anything I can do for the fridge? I'm guessing that the red light outside is some kind of warning light, but I don't know what to do about it.Thoughts Welcome-Thanks!Dave

Fridge would work until battery voltage dropped below roughly 10.5V when it would just turn off.The RED led light ON means that the recall box has tripped power to fridge.Tripped either due to a high-high temp being sensed which is what the recall box install was designed to do..........prevent fridge firesORThe recall box has faulted.There is a 'fix' using a magnet to reset box. I don't recommend because what IF it really was a high-high temp excursion.Have you tried turning fridge OFF then back ON to try resetting?Probably won't work.Call Norcold....have RV Tech check box (if faulty replace) and check for high-high temp problem.

Oh sorry, thought it was about something else..:R

The red light indicates that the Norcold recall box has shut the power off to the refer probably because of the low voltage. You need to look at it and see which revision of this band aid you have. If it is not Rev E you need to replace it. If it is then it can be reset with a magnet which I would do as I would monitor it for the next 12 hours to make sure the freezer starts to cool... BUT you need to consider the following by Doug Rainer... one of the best on RV problems:REV E boxes are the only ones I can reset with the magnet. I had my FIRST real trip (caused by a defective CU) of the recall last week on a REC C recall box. I bypassed and ran on 120 for 12 hours. when I checked, the refer was still warm inside and when I remove the insulated jacked on the recall thermocoupler. the flue was glowing bright orange for the heat build up of a BLOCKED CU. Made a BIG believer out of me to NEVER have a NON Qualified person to bypass in the field. I had the other techs come over and look at the result and we were all surprised by how bright and hot the flue was. Remember, the Trip temp is over 700 degrees and the normal operating temp is about 350 degrees. Doug

dshinnick wrote:Hey all-We have a 2005 Holiday Rambler Ambassador. We left it in storage, completely unhooked from everything, for just over three weeks. I left the refrigerator ON, running on LP, not realizing that it requires charged-up house batteries to operate. And, I forgot to use the battery disconnect, so when we got back, the house batteries were dead and nothing 12 volt was working, including the refrigerator. I first hooked up to shore power; then, probably 10 minutes later, I figured the battery acid level was probably low, and was it ever. Maybe completely dry, I don't know. But, I filled them all up. The EMS started bulk charging the batteries (though I guess it would have started when I went on shore power, before I filled the water back up). As of right now, about an hour after getting back, it's still bulk charging, and showing 13.4 volts.The refrigerator has shown no signs of life at all. While working outside I noticed a red glow coming from the outside refrigerator compartment. I have had the Norcold recall/fix done, and the red light on the little plastic box they installed as part of the fix, is on. There is a "refer" fuse in the front distribution panel, which I assume is for the refrigerator; it's good.So, I'd be interested in your thoughts on this. I'm thinking that I may have fried the house batteries, but I can't see why the refrigerator would be damaged. It just...shut off, right? We're parked on the level, so I don't see that as a problem.Anyway, how to proceed from here? What to watch for? Any risk (of fire or damage) to let the batteries keep on bulk charging? Anything I can do for the fridge? I'm guessing that the red light outside is some kind of warning light, but I don't know what to do about it.Thoughts Welcome-Thanks!DaveDid I miss it somewhere or are you saying that the fridge won't run on 120vac either? If it just ran out of gas, the lines are surely full of air and will take some doing before it's all out of there. I'd start with lighting the range to be sure that you have gas in that area.

Correct; we have shore power, everything else is working, but the fridge is completely dead. No display, power button does nothing, no ability to switch to 120. It was on LP when it died, so perhaps it's still in that mode, and I can't switch it. Our panel shows we're 2/3 full of LP. Haven't tried the stove yet; too full of junk from unpacking last night. :0)

Reefer problems. | Good Sam Community

Don_Don
Explorer
May 13, 2013
Go to a qualified service and let them look. All these suggestions are purely guessing and you'll be here all week trying to figure it out.
Executive45
Explorer III
May 13, 2013
Doug and Cassi Glass wrote:
Take the batteries to any auto parts store. They can check them out for you.

For a proper check, they should be fully charged and tested under a load.....Dennis
Doug_and_Cassi_
Explorer
May 12, 2013
Take the batteries to any auto parts store. They can check them out for you.
dshinnick
Explorer
May 12, 2013
And, what test can I run/how do I know, if I need new batteries?
Executive45
Explorer III
May 12, 2013
Roundtwo-40 wrote:
Oh sorry, thought it was about something else..:R

That would be reefer "madness".....:B:B:B.....D
2oldman
Explorer II
May 12, 2013
Roundtwo-40 wrote:
Oh sorry, thought it was about something else..:R
:)
Executive45
Explorer III
May 12, 2013
As I understand it from Norcold, Rev C cannot be reset in the field, and no, you cannot simply replace that unit yourself...think liability for Norcold. Unfortunately, while that red light is lit, your fridge will not work. Time for a call to your nearest repair center....Dennis

(There is a way to reset that box, but it's not recommended as resetting without proper monitoring may result in a fire, which is why I didn't post it here.)
dshinnick
Explorer
May 12, 2013
From the other posts, it seems unlikely that an unplug (which I already did, but didn't let it sit for a few minutes) will work. Apparently only the Rev E modules can be reset, with a magnet, and mine is a Rev C.

I do have a thought for ya'll. Can I just go to an authorized center, get a replacement recall module, and install it? If the old module was just defective, we're good. If not, if there's a real problem with the refrig, the new one will trip as well, and I'll know the coach has to go in.

Thoughts?
doxiemom11
Explorer II
May 12, 2013
Go outside and unplug from 120 and dc (we have 2 plugs) let it sit for a few minutes and plug back in and retry. We have had ours sucessfully reset using this method.
dshinnick
Explorer
May 12, 2013
Correct; we have shore power, everything else is working, but the fridge is completely dead. No display, power button does nothing, no ability to switch to 120. It was on LP when it died, so perhaps it's still in that mode, and I can't switch it. Our panel shows we're 2/3 full of LP. Haven't tried the stove yet; too full of junk from unpacking last night. :0)

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