refrigerator not working
I have a 2017 jayco class c redhawk.While running on generator power the lights dim off and on,the refrigerator is on and not getting cold and a noise coming from the bottom of the ref. Does the invertor have to be on?
Forum Discussion
Travelin2 wrote:
If you can't figure it out, go camp a night in a good campground. Early in the morning open all the hatches, spread your tools around in sight and an old guy will come by and ask you whats up. He will get you dialed in.
This is funny as rip, but most likely true. There is always some knowledgeable person who is willing to help.
PDI = Pre Delivery Inspection
Where the dealer has one of their mechanics walk you thru the entire RV covering all of the features and operation of all of the devices and appliances in the RV, and also covering idiosyncrasy's of the RV.
Charles- Take it back to the dealer's service dept and have them diagnose and correct the problem. It may be a problem with the converter charger, connections between the converter charger and the house battery, and improper setting of switches. If there is a switch marked "storage" or "aux battery", try switching it. Also make sure generator is providing power into the rig via an automatic transfer switch ( if you have one) or plugging the shore power cable into the side of the RV generator accessible in an adjacent cable storage compartment.
New rigs often have problems like this, have courage. Travelin2 wrote:
If you can't figure it out, go camp a night in a good campground. Early in the morning open all the hatches, spread your tools around in sight and an old guy will come by and ask you whats up. He will get you dialed in.
LOL, this is seriously the post of the year.
Sounds like the batts are not juicing it up and the igniter is coming on. How is all the voltage & charge?rvangel wrote:
I have a norcold 2 door refer. What does PDI refer too.
Something doesn't make sense here. It's a 2017, so I'm assuming you purchased new. PDI is predelivery inspection, where a sales rep goes over the whole rig front to back top to bottom and demonstrates and explains all features of your rig, as well as noting anything that needs to be addressed or fixed. At least that's what should have happened. If you are having problems, take it back to the dealer. If you want help with your problem you may need to be more specific. Does your fridge run well on shore power, or on propane alone?
You don't need to be a mechanical wizard to enjoy RVing, but a basic understanding of all its systems and how they work will make your RVing life more fun, less stressful and cheaper over the long run.- I wonder if the noise is the converter/charger struggling with a low or bad battery.
- The access door under the fridge is probably the power center; if you open the metal cover (often there's a sort of twist latch that you need to use a flathead screwdriver or similar flat thing to turn) you should see the 120V circuit breakers and 12V fuses for the house part of the motorhome. Often the converter is also part of the power center. Depending on the model of the converter, it may hum or make fan noises when it's in operation--that is, when connected to 120V shore power or when running the generator.
Travelin2 wrote:
If you can't figure it out, go camp a night in a good campground. Early in the morning open all the hatches, spread your tools around in sight and an old guy will come by and ask you whats up. He will get you dialed in.
AMEN!
Do you know what your house battery voltage is? The refrigerator PC board runs on 12 VDC and if the batteries are very low, PC boards are STUPID.
If you do not already have one, tomorrow, buy an inexpensive DIGITAL VOLTMETER. It is an invaluable diagnostic tool on an RV.- The clicking noise is probably the electronic igniter trying to light the propane flame.
Turn the fridge off. Make sure the main valve is open on your propane tank and that there is propane in the tank. Light the stove cook top to make sure your lines are purged of air and that the system has pressure. On high the burner flame should be large and vigorous. Turn on the fridge...turn it to gas operation and turn the temp to coldest setting. You should start hearing that clicking noise again. It will try to light for several seconds and if no flame it will time out. The line may be full of air so you may need to turn the fridge off and back on to get it to cycle again to get gas to the burner. The newer ones will cycle several times on their own. If after several tries there is no flame, make sure the manual shut off valve on the back of the frige is turned on.
The lights going dim to bright continously while on generator could be caused by rpm fluctuations of the generator. Does it sound smooth? Have you checked the water in the batteries? Check the voltage at the batteries with a multimeter while that light fluctuation thing is going on.
If you can't figure it out, go camp a night in a good campground. Early in the morning open all the hatches, spread your tools around in sight and an old guy will come by and ask you whats up. He will get you dialed in. - I have a norcold 2 door refer. What does PDI refer too.I am a newbie. What could the noise be. I took off the access door under the refer and could only see a metal square covering. I had the generator running ,refer was off,only the main electric power switch was on and I could hear the clicking/ticking noise from under the refer.
- Might have bad batteries.
