The air admittance in our Phaeton is located behind the washer/dryer. I have replaced it with a new, more expensive valve but I still get a slight unpleasant odot emitted from there. I know the trap for the washing machine drain can possibly be losing its water when I travel but I don't think it is happening, because I have run the washer for a couple of minutes to make sure it gets water. I don't think it mattered. We are very careful with dishwashing and try to make sure no food particles get down the galley drain. I even added Cascade to a 1/4 tank of clean water and drove with it a couple of houre to clean tank walls. What I am considering is drilling straight up through the roof and adding a standard roof vent to eliminate the air admittance valve. The should be no wirund in this area but that's no guarantee. Just wondering it anyone else has taken a similar step to eliminate the air admittance valve.

If your AAV is working, you should not get any odors from it what-so-ever. Before going to all the effort to reroute the vent, I'd spend the money for one more AAV. I'd suggest this one:Studor Mini-VentI replaced a defective AAV in our rig with one of these, and it has worked flawlessly.I would not risk cutting a wire in the roof. It would be very difficult to repair if you did.Jim

You probably have 3 AAVsThe one on washer drain lineOne under kitchen sink on drain lineAnd one under bathroom sink on drain lineAlso shower drain 'P' trap can loose water while traveling as with any f the sink 'P' traps

We were getting the sewer smell under our DS 1/2 bath last month. Changed the AAV and it stopped. We had to do the same to the washer drain about 3 months ago, haven't had any problems with it since. Ours were about $7 from Home Depot (1st one)and Lowes (2nd one)

On my old trailer, when I had an issue with one of those valves, I simply put a plastic bag over it and used a rubber band to secure it to the pipe. For me, it was a test to see if it really was the valve that was letting an odor in. If, after a day or two, you still smell something, then you have a different problem. If the smell goes away then you know the valve is bad. It is a cheap and simple test.

TucsonJim wrote:If your AAV is working, you should not get any odors from it what-so-ever. Before going to all the effort to reroute the vent, I'd spend the money for one more AAV. I'd suggest this one:Studor Mini-VentI replaced a defective AAV in our rig with one of these, and it has worked flawlessly.I would not risk cutting a wire in the roof. It would be very difficult to repair if you did.JimThe Studor pictured is the exact one I bought to replace the original. Didn't help. This is the first RV I've owned that didn't have a separate tank for the galley. I'm sure the galley is the source in spite of our efforts to keep food and grease from getting through.On my old trailer, when I had an issue with one of those valves, I simply put a plastic bag over it and used a rubber band to secure it to the pipe. For me, it was a test to see if it really was the valve that was letting an odor in. If, after a day or two, you still smell something,I actually did this with a surgical glove and it goes away. This is the only AAV in my coach. There is an outside vent above the galley.

Remove air admittance valve | Good Sam Community

mikestock
Explorer
Aug 19, 2015
If the smell gets through this quarter turn valve I give up. Just have to remember to open the valve when washing clothes.

The AAV is up above, out of sight.
wildmanbaker
Explorer
Aug 15, 2015
mikestock wrote:
On follow up. The glove covering the AAV elininated the smell. I may try another brand to see if I can get better results. The original was an Oatey brand and the new one I am trying is a Studor. I may try one more to see if I can get satisfactory results.

I really don't want to cut a hole through the roof. What I may do is add a 1-1/2" PVC valve in line with the AAV and only open the valve when using the washing machine. Whatever it takes, that smell has got to go.

That may be your answer to the problem.
Good luck
mikestock
Explorer
Aug 15, 2015
On follow up. The glove covering the AAV elininated the smell. I may try another brand to see if I can get better results. The original was an Oatey brand and the new one I am trying is a Studor. I may try one more to see if I can get satisfactory results.

I really don't want to cut a hole through the roof. What I may do is add a 1-1/2" PVC valve in line with the AAV and only open the valve when using the washing machine. Whatever it takes, that smell has got to go.
mikestock
Explorer
Aug 15, 2015
wildmanbaker wrote:
Mike, you may have a problem with you drain plumbing. It could be a crack in a length wise seem, a bad joint, or broken pipe. Check in your basement area where the holding tanks are located, to see if you can find anything obvious, such as water marks, smells. We had a length wise split in the kitchen drain line under the floor, that only showed up when the gray holding tank was full, or very near full. Apparently it would splash up into the area where the split was and cause the smell in the MH when traveling.

You could be right. I put a glove over the AAV after washing clothes. It will stay covered for a while. If the smell completely goes away I should know the answer.
wildmanbaker
Explorer
Aug 15, 2015
Mike, you may have a problem with you drain plumbing. It could be a crack in a length wise seem, a bad joint, or broken pipe. Check in your basement area where the holding tanks are located, to see if you can find anything obvious, such as water marks, smells. We had a length wise split in the kitchen drain line under the floor, that only showed up when the gray holding tank was full, or very near full. Apparently it would splash up into the area where the split was and cause the smell in the MH when traveling.
mikestock
Explorer
Aug 14, 2015
I am looking for a reason that the AAV was used when it appears that a vent could easily be extended up through the roof. I am thinking of making the change. I talked to a tech at Tiffin and he warned that I may hit some wiring with the required 2" hole, although I really see no reason that any wiring would run through that area. I think he was just giving me a CYA answer.

After doing all I can think of to prevent anything unpleasant from going into the gray tank I am really getting tired of the unpleasant odor in the bedroom area.
Cbones
Explorer
Aug 13, 2015
I had a similar issue. Even after replacing the AAV I still had an occasional sewer smell coming from the grey tank. Now I will throw a little enzymatic holding tank chemical down the sink and let the gray tank fill with normal use, then drain. It seems to keep the odor at bay for many weeks without adding any more chemical. I know that they make gray tank holding chemical, but I already have black tank chemical and it seems to do the job.
mikestock
Explorer
Aug 13, 2015
TucsonJim wrote:
If your AAV is working, you should not get any odors from it what-so-ever. Before going to all the effort to reroute the vent, I'd spend the money for one more AAV. I'd suggest this one:

Studor Mini-Vent

I replaced a defective AAV in our rig with one of these, and it has worked flawlessly.

I would not risk cutting a wire in the roof. It would be very difficult to repair if you did.

Jim

The Studor pictured is the exact one I bought to replace the original. Didn't help. This is the first RV I've owned that didn't have a separate tank for the galley. I'm sure the galley is the source in spite of our efforts to keep food and grease from getting through.

On my old trailer, when I had an issue with one of those valves, I simply put a plastic bag over it and used a rubber band to secure it to the pipe. For me, it was a test to see if it really was the valve that was letting an odor in. If, after a day or two, you still smell something,

I actually did this with a surgical glove and it goes away. This is the only AAV in my coach. There is an outside vent above the galley.
ddrueckh
Explorer
Aug 13, 2015
On my old trailer, when I had an issue with one of those valves, I simply put a plastic bag over it and used a rubber band to secure it to the pipe. For me, it was a test to see if it really was the valve that was letting an odor in. If, after a day or two, you still smell something, then you have a different problem. If the smell goes away then you know the valve is bad. It is a cheap and simple test.
Teacher_s_Pet
Explorer
Aug 13, 2015
We were getting the sewer smell under our DS 1/2 bath last month. Changed the AAV and it stopped. We had to do the same to the washer drain about 3 months ago, haven't had any problems with it since. Ours were about $7 from Home Depot (1st one)and Lowes (2nd one)

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Remove air admittance valve

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