Forum Discussion

mackr's avatar
mackr
Explorer
May 22, 2016

resealing fiberglass roof on mh

Anyone around Raleigh N C done there's or had it done.thanks

6 Replies

  • I have used a few different sealants but this is the best that I have used.
    GeoCel ProFlex RV Brushable Sealer
    http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/proflex-brushable-sealant/21208
    JR
  • DrewE,

    The primary reason I remove all the factory sealant is because I have found several times in the past, air bubbles, hairline cracks, vent edges that had missing screws, cracked ceiling vent flanges and more. I just like to get down to the parent materials I'm dealing with. To me, it's just not that hard to remove all the old sealant. I figure, I'm up there, taking the time, might as well do it to MY satisfaction. It's a matter of what pleases the one doing it.
    Scott
  • DrewE's avatar
    DrewE
    Explorer III
    FIRE UP wrote:
    mackr wrote:
    Anyone around Raleigh N C done there's or had it done.thanks


    I'm going to assume you mean to seal all the vents, cap edges, plumbing vents etc. and not re-seal the entire fiberglass roof, correct? If so, it's in all reality, very simple. That is of course unless there's something prohibiting from you getting on the roof. If so, then, yep, you'll have to contract that out. But, if not, I simply use a heat gun, remove all the sealant around all the vents etc. and wipe things down with alcohol and, re-apply Dicor self leveling sealant. Works like a charm and really does a bang-up job on sealing every seam, edge, screw head, antenna base(s) and more.
    Scott


    Unless it's coming off already, there's generally no need to remove the old Dicor. Just clean it thoroughly, let it dry completely, and put a thin new layer over the top of the old. I guess eventually if you start getting a miniature Mount Dicor building up it would make sense to remove the old.
  • mackr wrote:
    Anyone around Raleigh N C done there's or had it done.thanks


    I'm going to assume you mean to seal all the vents, cap edges, plumbing vents etc. and not re-seal the entire fiberglass roof, correct? If so, it's in all reality, very simple. That is of course unless there's something prohibiting from you getting on the roof. If so, then, yep, you'll have to contract that out. But, if not, I simply use a heat gun, remove all the sealant around all the vents etc. and wipe things down with alcohol and, re-apply Dicor self leveling sealant. Works like a charm and really does a bang-up job on sealing every seam, edge, screw head, antenna base(s) and more.
    Scott
  • Not roof, but I just restored gelcoat on my canoe.
    I sprayed it for good looks, but that can be brushed on as well.
    A gallon cost $100 at Tap Plastic, but you can ask for bussiness owner discount.
    Applying was easy job, although you have to be careful not to create mess.
    Preparation is what hurts.