Residential Fridge Batteries - How many??

Last night's use 85 amp hrs
Approx 1079 watt hrs
Less than 20 percent from our battery bank
But 38 percent from a pair of sixes

we have all been NEW members
and i think we have all made post in the Wrong thread

BUT diesel fuel tank and residential fridge is sure a big difference

I dont think he meant for it to be in this thread

BTW water will evaporate out of water proof epoxy
diesel fuel will not

you will need a DRY clean area NO fuel residue

you will need to lift/raise/tilt the RV, perhaps drain/pump the tank out and store the fuel

then try JB weld regular ,or perhaps the 'copper' epoxy for radiators

I've had two, four, six in wet cell, 4 in AGM
And right now five AGMs

Two are good for traveling and short stops and can make it overnight if you are not power users, but it is hard on the batteries and they need to be fully charged very day of dry camping

Four is much better

In a 12 Hr period, 8pm to 8am , we use between 70 ampHrs too 120ampHrs
That's fridge TV PC DVD charge phones and use fans for cooling
That's 30~50 percent if using only two six volt batteries
Your use can vary and will be different

SCVJeff wrote:

Ranger Smith wrote:

byrdnest6 wrote:
I have a challenging problem with a diesel fuel leak. The weld around the drain plug on my diesel tank is weeping at the rate of about 2 tablespoons a day. I have tried quick dry epoxy which seems to reduce it, however not stop it. I really don't want to have to drop the fuel tank and have it welded because of the expense. Does anyone have any ideas on a low cost way to repair it?

How about starting a thread about it and not hijack the current one with irrelevant info.

He's a new member. Give him a little luv

EXACTLY.... and the constant "do a search" comments are ridiculous for some specific questions. This is really a tough crowd sometimes. :)

The OP bought a brand new RV and it came with two batteries. The manufacturer 'assumes' he will be connected to electric for all his RVing and the two batteries are sufficient. We all know manufacturers don't know diddly about RVing.

If the OP is considering doing any dry camping then things change.

Ranger Smith wrote:

byrdnest6 wrote:
I have a challenging problem with a diesel fuel leak. The weld around the drain plug on my diesel tank is weeping at the rate of about 2 tablespoons a day. I have tried quick dry epoxy which seems to reduce it, however not stop it. I really don't want to have to drop the fuel tank and have it welded because of the expense. Does anyone have any ideas on a low cost way to repair it?

How about starting a thread about it and not hijack the current one with irrelevant info.

He's a new member. Give him a little luv

Effy wrote:

et2 wrote:

edatlanta wrote:
I just don't see the need for a residential refrigerator in an RV. Let me see, bigger battery bank at $100+ per battery (and they don't last forever if they are run down too much/too often), inverter or bigger inverter required, all to have harder ice cream? Doesn't make sense to me, but to each his own.

My Norcold keeps the freezer in the 7-8 degree range and I'm happy with that.

Until you run out of propane. Or plan to go off the grid. Especially in a MH, not like you can pull the tank out and go get fuel when needed. Someone with a solar power never has to worry about powering their fridge ( or other stuff too). Not to mention a generator start up to top them off. We've owned many of the traditional ( norcold) and they are minimal at best in size and capability. Always had a issue with every one of them.

It's not all about having harder ice cream. There is a very distinct benefit over a propane fridge. You have to buy fuel to power yours, that cost money too.

I think both refers have their pros and cons but lp fuel consumption isn't one of them. If you plan on boondocking and are so low on lp that your fridge uses it all, you have planning issues. The amount of lp that a fridge uses is so small I think you could run it for a year without running out. Also, you can run your generator to run it on electric pretty easily. Frankly I'd rather boondock with a gen and LP than batteries. Not saying all electric coaches are bad, but I think boondocking is more if a con for electric coaches than lp and gen setup. Solar has it's constraints too and a heavy dependency on direct sunlight, which may not be the case in wooded areas. LP and Gen have no such constraints. Just sayin.

x2

Ranger Smith wrote:

wildmanbaker wrote:
As for the fire comment, if you think that a res fridge is not much of a fire hazard bolted into a blind cabinet, you may want to think again. If something goes wrong, there is really nothing to tell you, until fire and smoke are in the people compartment.

As a firefighter and former fire chief I have in all my years NEVER saw a case where a residential refrigerator caused a house fire or caused a house to burn down. I have seen it several times with the RV units . . . You may want to think again

OK, I have been a Professional RV Tech for 37 years in a LARGE Metroplex (DFW, Texas) and have NEVER seen a Fire in a Norcold 1200 that was caused by the Norcold. I have seen 2 or 3 fires caused by rodent nests or bad LP connections to the refer. I HAVE seen 2 residential refers that shorted out from icemaker line leakage and could have caused a fire if not caught and the refer unplugged when it happened. You may have seen RV units burn, but I doubt YOU have the credentials or training to determine WHAT caused that fire. I would not hesitate to have my family or anyone use a RV refer, as they are inherently safe. I have seen hundreds of Ammonia leakers over that 37 years and NOT ONE fire resulted from those leaks. Doug

Ranger Reg wrote:
so I reposted the question and I got my answer thru my post. Thank You

And what answer did you go with?

Search results are dependent on what you ask. Most searches fail because this is not google, it's not smart enough to pick out keywords and find posts with just those words in any order unless you tell it to. Try searching 'residential batteries number', all words in any order.

If you search for exact phrases like "number of batteries for residential refrigerator" you'll bomb.

I've saved this post for the next time someone asks the same question. Whether it will be of any value is TBD.

Well guys, in reference to searching for other post on this topic, if you don't specify EXACTLY what you are searching for that search will come up "Unable to Locate." so I reposted the question and I got my answer thru my post. Thank You

Effy wrote:

et2 wrote:

edatlanta wrote:
I just don't see the need for a residential refrigerator in an RV. Let me see, bigger battery bank at $100+ per battery (and they don't last forever if they are run down too much/too often), inverter or bigger inverter required, all to have harder ice cream? Doesn't make sense to me, but to each his own.

My Norcold keeps the freezer in the 7-8 degree range and I'm happy with that.

Until you run out of propane. Or plan to go off the grid. Especially in a MH, not like you can pull the tank out and go get fuel when needed. Someone with a solar power never has to worry about powering their fridge ( or other stuff too). Not to mention a generator start up to top them off. We've owned many of the traditional ( norcold) and they are minimal at best in size and capability. Always had a issue with every one of them.

It's not all about having harder ice cream. There is a very distinct benefit over a propane fridge. You have to buy fuel to power yours, that cost money too.

I think both refers have their pros and cons but lp fuel consumption isn't one of them. If you plan on boondocking and are so low on lp that your fridge uses it all, you have planning issues. The amount of lp that a fridge uses is so small I think you could run it for a year without running out. Also, you can run your generator to run it on electric pretty easily. Frankly I'd rather boondock with a gen and LP than batteries. Not saying all electric coaches are bad, but I think boondocking is more if a con for electric coaches than lp and gen setup. Solar has it's constraints too and a heavy dependency on direct sunlight, which may not be the case in wooded areas. LP and Gen have no such constraints. Just sayin.

You're correct, they both have their pro's and cons. Personally I believe your propane usage claims are a bit liberal. But one thing you have to remember is your propane fridge still needs 12v to run the control board. A battery you too have to recharge ( probably at least 2). Charging a battery would be the same for you as anyone else. Running a generator, solar, driving, or plugged into a power source.

So that being said one thing a propane is always doing .... Burning fuel. A battery bank can be recharged using solar, over and over for years. To not consider putting a solar panel In the best position to achieve the benefit would be poor planning. There are many options for that. Battery costs per year would be less than $5 per month when replacement is required. The same cost possibly as someone using propane. So the cost of the batteries, if that is a issue is miniscule and a cost everyone has.