When I had the Samsung installed I was shown how the ventilation draws air from under the fridge and than redirected with a baffle plate in the rear so the air than exits under the fridge back into the MH. This seems to be common for residential units so they cam be placed close to a wall and still have adequate ventilation.But this has started me wondering if I could cut that baffle so the air exits out the back instead of sending the hot air into the coach. Since this is a conversion I still have the ability to vent the area between the fridge and the back wall.Has anyone else considered this and is there any apparent downside I might be overlooking.

Out the back?Do you mean outside?The only thing that will accomplish, is exposing the back of the fridge to hot summer outside heat, and also let that hot outside air into the RVIt will not help cool fridge, or keep the RV coolerIf I misunderstood the question, then the answer is wrong

I believe what he's asking is could a vent be added to the MH so the air was vented outside instead of redirected into the MH. Kind of like moving the normal roof mounted vent to the side, although using a different type of vent, maybe even using the current fridge intake vent as an exhaust point instead.

Can the baffles that redirect the air back out to the front of the refer be deleted and allow the hot air to go up the back of the refer and out the original roof vents?Have the original roof vents be covered over?We're thinking of going with a residential refer also. My thoughts were to install the same type of muffin fans in the roof that people use for their NorColds. Is this not a good idea?Bill

Sorry for the confusion but perhaps I wasn't clear in my thinking. Since the original Dometic was installed with the clear intent of venting the hot air out the roof I was wondering if it would be practical to do the same with the residential. That way I could seal the bottom of the fridge below the air inlet and let the fan blow the hot air out the back and up to the already installed roof top vent.In theory I would not need a supplemental exhaust fan since convection and the condenser fan should suffice.

I modified mine so the bottom fan blows out half of the bottom vent. Left the roof vent open so any hot air would escape. Thought I might go back to original in winter and seal off the lower vent but it never got cold enough.

Residential Fridge Ventilation | Good Sam Community

23 Replies

Trackrig
Explorer II
May 14, 2017
Can the baffles that redirect the air back out to the front of the refer be deleted and allow the hot air to go up the back of the refer and out the original roof vents?

Have the original roof vents be covered over?

We're thinking of going with a residential refer also. My thoughts were to install the same type of muffin fans in the roof that people use for their NorColds. Is this not a good idea?

Bill
Bruce_Brown
Moderator
May 14, 2017
I believe what he's asking is could a vent be added to the MH so the air was vented outside instead of redirected into the MH. Kind of like moving the normal roof mounted vent to the side, although using a different type of vent, maybe even using the current fridge intake vent as an exhaust point instead.
MrWizard
Moderator
May 14, 2017
Out the back?
Do you mean outside?

The only thing that will accomplish, is exposing the back of the fridge to hot summer outside heat, and also let that hot outside air into the RV
It will not help cool fridge, or keep the RV cooler

If I misunderstood the question, then the answer is wrong

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Residential Fridge Ventilation

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