Forum Discussion

msmith1199's avatar
msmith1199
Explorer II
May 24, 2020

Residential Fridge versus three-way in a Class B or C

I’m looking at getting a Class B+ motorhome and one of the options is a residential electric fridge versus a regular RV propane/Electric one. I’d much rather have a regular residential fridge simply because of fewer parts and way cheaper to repair or replace when that time comes. Cost me $1500 just to replace the cooling unit on my current DP.

So the question, the Class B+ comes with two 12 volt house batteries and a 1000 watt inverter. I’ll also get a solar panel and controller on it. I do plan on boondock it quite a bit in the back country in Nevada. Should I have any power issues? If I run the generator a couple of hours a day plus having the solar will that keep the batteries charged? I’ve heard the new residential fridges use very little power, but I’ve only heard of them being installed in bigger Class A’s with lots more battery power.
Class C

7 Replies

  • BFL13's avatar
    BFL13
    Explorer II
    May 26, 2020
    Off-grid, have a propane fridge.

    We tried a 120v only 3.2 cu ft fridge in the TC we had. We had four batteries at about 440AH and 300w of solar. If the sun shone every day we just got by, but any cloudy days no can do. The fridge on inverter is not the only 12v item in the RV either.

    The res fridge eats AH, so they are great if you usually have shore power, but are basically unsat off grid for any time more than a few days before you get shore power again.
  • msmith1199's avatar
    msmith1199
    Explorer II
    May 25, 2020
    Well if you’re running an A/C you’ve got the generator running anyway, so that is not relevant to the question. But the other info is good. What I was really looking for was not a math lesson, but for anybody running a residential fridge in a smaller motorhome and how it’s working for them.
  • theoldwizard1's avatar
    theoldwizard1
    Explorer II
    May 25, 2020
    First, I am 100% in favor of compressor refrigerators, be they 120VAC or 12VDC. They just work better, especially in hot weather.

    msmith1199 wrote:
    So the question, the Class B+ comes with two 12 volt house batteries and a 1000 watt inverter.

    A pair of Group 27 "dual purpose" batteries will give you about 180 Ah of power. A pair of 6V golf cart batteries will give you about 225 Ah of power, likely will last longer and their replacement will cost less !

    A 1000W inverter may or may not adequate for your refrigerator, depending on the model. Some are very efficient, some are not. BUYER BEWARE ! Do your homework !

    Sadly, RV manufacturers are SEVERAL years behind the "technology" curve. You would be better off with a with a inverter/charger/automatic transfer switch and just a DC distribution panel, no converter. Sadly, few RV manufacturers offer this.


    msmith1199 wrote:
    I’ll also get a solar panel and controller on it. I do plan on boondock it quite a bit in the back country in Nevada. Should I have any power issues? If I run the generator a couple of hours a day plus having the solar will that keep the batteries charged?

    Not enough information ! How much solar ? How big of a generator ? If the generator has to run an A/C then it will take a lot more than "a couple of hours".

    Also, do no bet on driving to recharge your batteries, unless you get a DC-DC charger.
  • time2roll's avatar
    time2roll
    Nomad
    May 24, 2020
    Plenty of posts say you should plan on 500+ watts solar and 4 to 6 batteries for off grid camping with a residential.
    Still need to run the generator periodically. If you run the A/C a lot it may not matter much. With little to no A/C might get by with a Honda 2200 and skip the built in generator.
  • MDKMDK's avatar
    MDKMDK
    Explorer
    May 24, 2020
    What year/make/model of small class C are you looking at? It matters.

    EDIT: OK, I guess my original question wasn't interesting enough.
    Here are some more...just for fun....
    1) What make/type/group size of (2) batteries does it come with and how many Ah do they suggest they will produce under normal circumstances?

    2) What make model of residential fridge does it come with?

    3) What is the wattage rating of the solar panel(s) you're considering?
  • Lwiddis's avatar
    Lwiddis
    Explorer II
    May 24, 2020
    Do an energy survey as best you can...then times 1.5. Then you can select batteries with at least double the amp hours. A solar panel? Standard is at least one solar watt for each battery amp hour. Regarding residential fridge, I suggest you look up their power needs. It may not be what you heard. The right solar system eliminates the need for any generator use on most days without A/C need. Not a bandaid to cut down on generator use.

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