Rust-frozen brake bleeder screws
Since I grew up in the rust-belt, I’ve had problems in the past with frozen brake bleeder screws, my MH (which used to live in New York) is no exception. The brakes currently work well and have nice t...
Forum Discussion
Geocritter wrote:
I want to thank all y'all. It looks as if I've been going about it correctly. Fortunately, the rubber caps on my bleeders are all intact, as for the ATF/acetone penetrating oil aka Ed's Red, over the years I've heard nothing but great things about it but have been too lazy to mix up a batch, I guess it's time I did. I loved the SPEED BLEEDER suggestion for future fluid changes. I didn't know what speed bleeders were but a quick stroll down google lane quickly brought me up to speed.
Thanks again all y'all for your wisdom and insight.
Steve
Steve,
There is a problem with Speed Bleeders on an older vehicle (even one as new as yours ;) ). That is that it will invite you to over stroke that master cylinder and that takes the high pressure over territory that they have not encountered recently. I have known this to cause the master cylinder to begin internal leakage (sinking pedal).
Flushing the system every third year or so is a very good idea. It is particularly good if your master cylinder has a cap that does not have a rubber diaphragm just a vented cap.
Why is this in the Detroit OE service books? Because the warranty will have been done before it matters.... Look in the old German and Japanese books. They say things like at year 5 (regardless of mileage) replace all the rubber parts in the break system. Not stupid, but real expensive, and in Japan things are very different.
Matt - Once an OE engineer
