Brake bleeder suggestions

I don't like pressure systems either. Too messy and you know how bad that fluid is for causing corrosion.
For simple bleeding chores I just use the two person method.
FOr more complicated work, like after replacing all the hard and rubber lines, I have another system that's works fantastic.
Start with a Mighty Vac 16oz reservoir link and then buy about 20' of 1/4" vacuum line frm Amazon for a few bucks.
Attach the vacuum line to a vac source on the vehicle and on to the reservoir. Attach the reservoir to the fitting and start the engine.
Now you can crack the lines and have a strong (but not too strong) source of continuous vacuum to bleed with. Note that the fluid never enters the vac. line to the eng.
This method is cheap, extremely controllable and quick.

Not exactly sure what you refer to.. Bleeding the wheel (caliper's) after changing pads, replacing (flush and refill fluid) or just insuring there is no air in the system?

I use either a Mityvac vacuum pump with a catch bottle and / or allow gravity to fill the wheel cylinders and do the final pull with the Mityvac.

As a rule, your master cylinder will always be higher than your wheels and brake fluid is pretty viscous so it flows readily and fluid always flows downhill.

I do a brake fluid flush and refill every few years. Fluid is cheap, even DOT 5.

SidecarFlip wrote:
Not exactly sure what you refer to.. Bleeding the wheel (caliper's) after changing pads, replacing (flush and refill fluid) or just insuring there is no air in the system?

I use either a Mityvac vacuum pump with a catch bottle and / or allow gravity to fill the wheel cylinders and do the final pull with the Mityvac.

As a rule, your master cylinder will always be higher than your wheels and brake fluid is pretty viscous so it flows readily and fluid always flows downhill.

I do a brake fluid flush and refill every few years. Fluid is cheap, even DOT 5.

Need to change the fluid in my toad. I think the mighty vac is most popular.

This company has Pressure bleeder kits. Remember, the PSI is very low(15psi). I used the specified kit for my 75 Corvette(dual caliper bleeders) and it is a WHOLE LOT EASIER than attempting to use 2 people doing the old style manual bleed. AND you can get all the old fluid out. Doug

https://www.motiveproducts.com/collections/domestic-bleeder-kits

I was taught it is not a good idea to refill the reservoir as the fluid goes down. The thought being, if you do not have a leak in your fluid system, it can only go down as your pads and/or shoes wear. Not only does the low fluid serve as an indicator your pads and/or shoes need attention, but if you continously top off the reservoir it will overflow when you install new pads and/or shoes. That overflow can sure make a mess on the firewall and fender, as well as eat the paint.

Wayne

I used to do pressure bleeding but I only vacuum bleed, now. I rigged up an old refrigerant cylinder with a big drain plug and tubing and use my vac pump. It's easy to do the job by myself and I can see when all the dirty fluid is out. Craig

I have motive produces pressure bleeder and it works like a charm.
I always used a pressure bleeder back when turning wrenches professionally paid the rent. Always worked great.

I use a small glass bottle and a short piece of hose. Slide the hose over the bleeder valve, put the other end of the hose in a small glass bottle to which you have added enough fresh brake fluid to cover the end of the hose. Open the bleeder valve and pump the brake pedal until all the air is purged. Keep an eye on brake fluid levels and don't let any get too low that you start sucking air. Also keep an eye on the glass bottle to make sure it doesn't overfill.

I've used this method to flush brake systems and I have bled multiple wheels concurrently. Just make sure the hose end(s) are always covered in fluid whenever the bleeder valve(s) is open.

Reddog1 wrote:
I was taught it is not a good idea to refill the reservoir as the fluid goes down. The thought being, if you do not have a leak in your fluid system, it can only go down as your pads and/or shoes wear. Not only does the low fluid serve as an indicator your pads and/or shoes need attention, but if you continously top off the reservoir it will overflow when you install new pads and/or shoes. That overflow can sure make a mess on the firewall and fender, as well as eat the paint.

Wayne

When I do a fluid change, I'll suck most of the old fluid out of the master cylinder tank with a syringe (with no needle of large capacity.

I take the old fluid and dump it in the pails with my used motor oil to be recycled (burned in my waster oil furnace in the shop. Brake fluid is extremely flammable.

You can actually use a syringe to vacuum bleed your wheel cylinders and calipers but I find the Mityvac with the catch bottle to be easier.

When I do brakes, I always replace everything. Hoses, calipers rotors and pads and on drum brakes, wheel cylinders, shoes, self adjusters all the hardware springs and hold down's plus the drums and feed hoses.

I never just replace pads and shoes. Stuff is cheap anyway and my time is my time, but then if I was having a shop do it at 100 bucks plus an hour, I might consider other options.

I do know one thing and that is the best tool I ever bought for pulling rotors and bearings and hubs was the Harbor Freight 5 ton hydraulic 3 jaw puller for 75 bucks (60 on sale). No beating off rusted on rotors or seized bearings. Just put it on, firm it up and pump, pump, pump. Usually by the 3rd pump, the rotor or whatever has popped off the hub.

Just used it on my wife's Ford Transit Van on the back axle. The drums have no access to get to the self adjusters so you have to pull the drums and shoes together. 3 pumps and the whole shebang came off. Drum, shoes, retainers all popped right off.

Amazing too and. it a rotor is really stuck, it will break the rotor in 2 pieces before it comes off. No shock loading the bearings with a sledge hammer, no heating the rotors with a torch and risking bearing failure. Nice cold pull. Cannot beat it.

I have used a power bleeder at work, and home , for years and find it very easy. With a hose and a bottle on the bleed screw it is clean and easy.