brake bleeder tool

wolfe10 wrote:
Speed bleeders would NOT be the way I would do it on an old master cylinder. They rely on the master cylinder being pumped many, many times, with the seals running into areas that are likely rough.

Far better to suck the fluid from the wheels and not use the master cylinder at all for the job.

Yea this is the way i am gonna go.I will see if it will help if not i guess my next step will be to take it to a shop and get a complete inspection.Thanks for all yor help.

Speed bleeders would NOT be the way I would do it on an old master cylinder. They rely on the master cylinder being pumped many, many times, with the seals running into areas that are likely rough.

Far better to suck the fluid from the wheels and not use the master cylinder at all for the job.

I just use 'Speed Bleeders', problem solved.

Years ago I bought a motive power bleeder kit that pressurizes your master cylinder and keeps it filled so that you can bleed each caliper without having to pump the brakes or worry about the MC going dry. If you do your own brakes its a great tool to have in your toolbox.

Otherwise same steps as already posted. Make sure to remove old fluid from the MC, replace with fresh fluid, ensure you use a piece of clear tubing attached to the caliper bleed valve so you don't accidentally let air back in at the caliper end. If you use a different colored brake fluid it is easy to see when the clean fluid comes out the caliper bleed valve.

From your description of the condition of the fluid in the master cylinder, I would strongly suggest an additional FIRST step.

Suck the old fluid out of the master cylinder. Fill with new fluid. Stir it around with a clean metal tool. Suck out the fluid. Repeat until it is totally clear. THEN change the brake fluid by sucking out fluid starting at the furthest location from the master cylinder (right rear).

You really don't want to move all that dirty fluid through the system.

I slip a small hose over the caliper bleeder valve and stick the other end into a small jar containing enough brake fluid to cover the hose. Open the bleeder valve, top off the MC, and pump the brake once. Check fluid levels (empty jar and/or top off MC) and repeat as necessary. Do this with each caliper beginning with the one furthest away.

Start by using a large unopened container of brake fluid and do not recycle the brake fluid removed from jars. Your system will be well-flushed when you are done.

Son of Norway wrote:
Yes, I believe it will do the same job as long as you push sufficient fluid through the system. I like to push enough fluid through to replace the fluid, instead of just bleeding the brakes.

Yea i had the same idea.I will siphon all the the fluid from the the reservoir.Than fill it with fresh fluid.Than use the bleeder tool to siphon all the air and contaminated fluid from the system.I figure this should take care of any air that would be trapped in the bore of the mc.Correct me if i am wrong.

Yes, I believe it will do the same job as long as you push sufficient fluid through the system. I like to push enough fluid through to replace the fluid, instead of just bleeding the brakes.

Son of Norway wrote:
To bleed a master cylinder, rig two connections at the outlets of the master cylinder to two tubes that go back up and over down into the reservoirs. Make sure they are full. Have an assistant slowly push down the brake pedal several times until there are no air bubbles. Having said that, I have only bled master cylinders when I was replacing them. The normal routine of bleeding the brake lines is probably sufficient, unless you have some reason to believe that there is a problem with the master cylinder.

I am just trying to get an idea if bleeding the the breaks from the calipers will do the same trick of getting the air from the mc?

To bleed a master cylinder, rig two connections at the outlets of the master cylinder to two tubes that go back up and over down into the reservoirs. Make sure they are full. Have an assistant slowly push down the brake pedal several times until there are no air bubbles. Having said that, I have only bled master cylinders when I was replacing them. The normal routine of bleeding the brake lines is probably sufficient, unless you have some reason to believe that there is a problem with the master cylinder.