Rusty propane tank - is it safe?

The Manchester tanks up to 2002 were painted from the factory, 2002 to present were powder coated, mainly do to rusting.

So CSG,

Are you going to scrape, sand & repaint the part of the tank you can get to like most on here have said? I use Rustoleum.

I am currently in the process of repainting the LP tank mounted on our Class A. First, I removed any paint that was loose or peeling. I used a fine metal brush to remove some, but not all, of the surface rust, as instructed by the rust conversion product used. Corroseal is a water soluble rust converter and primer. Follow the instructions carefully, paying strict attention to the color as it is drying. When you get a good black surface, not grey or brown, it is good to go. Let it cure for a minimum of 24 hours before painting. I chose Rustoleum Protective Enamel, simply because no other dedicated Propane Tank Paint, such as Van Sickle or Krylon, was available in my local area. And of course, with most of my well planned projects, I have waited the requisite curing time, and thunderstorms and heavy rains are predicted. So, I will put the project on hold until the weather conditions cooperate. The converter says I have up to thirty days to paint it. ROFL
Note: If you use a rust converter or primer, be certain that the topcoat paint is compatible with it.

The Suburban dealer said it was 4 or 6 bolts holding the tank on. Tank replacement would be easy. The time would be to check and double check the lines. As I said earlier, they pronounced my tank just fine and had no issues topping it off. I've never smelled propane in or near the rig.

I don't know about newer Class B's but the older Rt's were pretty straight forward when it came to removing, and reinstalling the tank. Took me about 2 hrs. that was doing it the for the first time, I would think a dealer would be faster.

Tanks themselves are about $400. However, I'm sure the expensive part is getting the old one dropped and the new one bolted into place, fittings connected, and everything tested for leaks. However, if a tank is rusty, I wonder if this might not be too bad a thing to do after 15-20 years.

Last year when we went traveling with my brother to New York city in October I could smell propane coming from his RV a few times. He said he would get it checked out when he got home. Two weeks later when he got home he took it in to get it checked. There was rust on the top of the tank that you could not see. It was just surface rust. LOL They found a pin hole amongst the rust.
You don't want to be on the road when that happens. Can be expensive.

I stopped at Suburban Propane today and two guys checked the system over saying it was just surface rust and no issue whatsoever. Also checked the regulator and lines and pronounced all good and topped the tank. Apparently, this style tank doesn't need recertification, just periodic checks.

I scrape, sand & paint mine every 2 years. I can't get to the top as it's mounted under my rv. Looks good when done & the propane fill guy says so.

Loctite sells a rust neutralizer primer. I have -zero- clue how well it works, but I wonder, assuming the rust isn't deep, and the rust is not near the valves or any necks (a weak spot there is not a good thing), maybe wire brush the worst of the existing stuff, add the primer, then spray paint after 24 hours, for a decent paint job.

I also recommend a propane wand as well. It won't tell you exactly where a leak it, but it will help find the general vicinity of one. When I check the LP gas lines of my TT, I use a wand and glycerin spray (soapy water, if not rinsed off causes corrosion), and when people ask what I'm doing, I tell them I am doing the Zippo test... needless to say, I get plenty of space to finish my work.