Rusty Water Drip

Seon wrote:
I just drove 2.5 hrs back from the shop in Hayward, Ca. Said they looked for leak signs but didn't find any so nothing was done...WHAT?? Asked about pressure test or even water test and guy gave me a puzzled look and said there’s no way of pressurizing the inside the cab…another WHAT??? PO was the one that picked this shop.
Told him never mind and drove off.

So I now called a shop in Sacramento that advertised "Pressure Testing" to make an appointment.
Told him the background and that no pressure test were done. He said most of those types of leaks are either from clearance light gaskets or the joint on top and side of the overhead. He suggested that I inspect those first and if I still have a leak(s), then to bring the RV in for pressure testing. Now that's mighty nice.
I'll post results later.

We live in Sacramento and luckily there are a few very good shops. Hoping it all works out for you. Depending on how long ago you bought it, you may have a case against the seller whom it sounds like to me absolutely knew about repairs, but did not disclose it. That is fraud and a likely expensive lesson for him in Small Claims Court ($10,000 max). Failure to disclose is serious stuff. Best of luck to you.

These guys get excellent ratings: https://www.yelp.com/biz/california-rv-specialists-lodi-3?hrid=OuBknI42sXmUDiCXO2sMvg

Here's another shop in Morgan Hill that performs the pressure tests. http://www.familyrv.com/special.cfm?ID=2393

This LINK illustrates and explains a pressure tester. A high velocity low volume blower (say a leaf blower) may not work, because there are a lot of natural leaks in an RV. The Fridge Vents, the Range Hood Fan, Roof Vents, Chassis A/C Vents and on and on.
A unit like Sealtech provides a high volume of low pressure air. You can enter a coach that's being tested. The door doesn't blow open when you unlatch it, and your ears don't pop once you're inside and close the door.

I just drove 2.5 hrs back from the shop in Hayward, Ca. Said they looked for leak signs but didn't find any so nothing was done...WHAT?? Asked about pressure test or even water test and guy gave me a puzzled look and said there’s no way of pressurizing the inside the cab…another WHAT??? PO was the one that picked this shop.
Told him never mind and drove off.

So I now called a shop in Sacramento that advertised "Pressure Testing" to make an appointment.
Told him the background and that no pressure test were done. He said most of those types of leaks are either from clearance light gaskets or the joint on top and side of the overhead. He suggested that I inspect those first and if I still have a leak(s), then to bring the RV in for pressure testing. Now that's mighty nice.
I'll post results later.

Song says "It Never Rains in California" at least not till everything's dry then burnt when rain falls and mud slides...

Anyhow, There are little Weep Holes in the lower frames of sliding windows, and I suspect your Winne has one on each side of the cabover. If Tracks and/or Holes get blocked with dirt, mold, etc. water will back up and ooze inside. We have those windows, and they were such a pain, we sealed them "closed" with clear sealant.

Pressure Test is your best bet. It's the Gold Standard in RV Leak Detection. Otherwise, we try to inspect but basically we guess. A professional may guess a little better than an RVer, so I suppose they are giving us an "Educated Guess."

Edit: The Front Window is a top suspect too, BUT Clearance Lights contribute much more than their share of leaks! Each is mounted with two fasteners (hopefully screws not rivets) so 10 holes there. Then the wiring takes another hole, now we're at 15 suspects. Shop I use, seals bu pulling the lenses and sealing the Bulbs to the Inside of the Light Base, Where the Lens snaps onto the Base, then Around the Base itself. If we drive INTO a rainstorm at 65 and the rain's coming at us at 35, that's a 100 MPH, Hurricane Force, Wind slamming those drops against the coach.

As previously stated - spend a $100 and take the rig to a shop on your own and have it pressure tested - won't break the bank and it will definitely determine if your rig has issues. Not sure water "water tested" means but some shops pour water on rig to see if they can spot leaks - that's a poor test.

Dropped the RV off at the shop as scheduled with OP being the warranty was under his name. On the way to the shop I encountered a downpour and it was evident that rain entered the overhead.

Got a call from OP yesterday that the shop water tested but couldn't find any leak; however, OP further said that the shop did resealed around the windows.

I'm picking up the RV today and see what the shop has to say as to why they couldn't find the leak especially when they saw the water under the overhead cushion when I dropped it off.

OP scheduled an appointment with the shop that sealed it for next Thursday Jan 25 under warrantee. Will post results.

There's definitely water damage. I’m waiting for the shop to schedule an inspection date, hopefully sometimes this week. Then there will be the issue of the shop taking responsibility of the water damages.

Seon wrote:
I contacted the PO to tell him about the leak. He provided me a receipt dated Jan '17 from a Service Center showing all opening and seams sealed to the tune of $2367.79...WHAT??? Is that price excessive?

At any rate, I'm going to call that shop on Monday to see what they will do.

Doesn't cost near that much to have your rig caulked/sealed - the amt would imply that they did something more - maybe some other water related damage maybe something else.

Pursuing the repair shop is worth while - but I would spend $125 or so and have the rig pressure tested to determine all the leaks regardless. Your going to have to fix the leaks whether the repair shop helps or not - and having that report will give you some ammo for discussing about how the 2017 super expensive caulk job didn't seal the rig.

Are there any soft spots in the bunk board ? Were the screws rusted or do they have a brownish color ?