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JCMack's avatar
JCMack
Explorer
Jul 25, 2016

RV door will not close tightly

the top of our RV door does not close tightly against the frame so when travelling vibrates against the frame and makes a heck of a noise. This is a gasser so suspension is a bit rough. I have adjusted the latch in as far as it will go. Does anyone know of a way to bring the top of the door in to snug it up to the frame. I was thinking of some kind of latch to tighten when driving
  • Our Coach a Revolution, the door viberates at speed, the top 1/3.
    The reason is the design. The hinge stop where the door takes an angle.
    You can watch it and hear it sometimes. Eventually it will wear out the door gasket, which can be replaced. I hope the glass does not come out. Haven't heard of any losing it though.I don't know what they have done or haven't since our 05 model was produced. None of the other models follow that design and are probably reinforced inside the door. The wind goes by and sucks it out as it tries to suck adjacent areas too.
    Perhapssome aero tabs or something might stop the airplane wing effect.
  • Had the same problem in a 2004 Jamboree and it drove me crazy. Tried all sorts of peel and stick insulation and gaskets to no avail. Finally determined problem was due to the side wall curving inward almost 1/2 inch beginning near the door latch and up to the roof. The inner screen door made it impossible to add an additional latch near the top inside and I was afraid of a situation requiring a quick exit or someone needing to get inside in an emergency while occupied so I abandoned that idea. I noticed some RV manufacturers using a gas filled strut at the top outside of the door. The strut applies pressure in the same manner as the compartment door struts on my class A. It will also hold the door open. I found all the parts in auto parts stores and was ready to install them when I got the wild idea to up size to a class A. You can seek out one of these RVs and get some idea of how it works and if it can be adapted to your situation. Depending on how big the gap is bending the door frame may be a bit drastic. Just my humble opinion.
  • If new I would take it back to the shop, if used I would find out first why it is so crooked in the hole like that.

    That door should not be doing that. I would take a hard look to see if you have a bent or twisted frame or the wood inside the door is rotted.
  • I thought I answered this previously but here goes again. I second the suggestion of bending the door or put a shim on the bottom which will force the top in when latched. You may have to replace or add to the weatherstrip with the shim.
  • Check to see if the hinges are cracked/broken, or loose in the frame. Also, it probly needs a new weatherstrip.
  • "zigzagrv" has the right idea and would be how it's adjusted at a shop. Take a block of 4"x4" and place it in the middle of the door near the lock. Have someone hold the bottom in place while pushing the top in. Obviously, you need to be careful and go slowly, but it should tweek the door enough to close properly.
  • Maybe you could replace the weatherstripping in the frame that the door seals against. Perhaps the foam (assuming it's foam) has lost some of its springiness over time.
  • Three suggestions: A plain screen door latch, stick on foam caulking, or you can try to bend the door, carefully of course, so that it closes tightly at the top. To bend the door, put a block of wood at the bottom so that the door doesn't close there and gently bend the top in till it touches the frame.
  • Check if you have adjustment cape ability with the hinges. Also check the door and door frame for flatness. A gas coach door is may be a step up in construction from a stick and brick bedroom door and if water gets inside it can twist if the builder used wood framing construction.