RV Garage Construction - Any Tips?

The biggest you can afford and zoning will allow. 12x14high door if it’s roll up. Personally I would have skylights rather than Windows to help keep people out. I’m jealous..

I store my coach in a metal shed with a roll up door on the family farm about 20 miles from my house, which works ok, but has also given me the opportunity to think about the things I would change, and things I would do if I were building from scratch. In my case I have half of a 40x60 shed with a partition wall down the middle leaving me with a 40 ft long by 30 ft wide area, with a 12x12 roll up door offset to one side leaving me with about 5 more feet on the drivers side than on the passenger side. (my coach is 11'5" tall)

Here are a list of things I would do different, and things I may retrofit.

1, put lights on the side walls vs the florescent fixtures on the ceiling, as I don't care how well lit the roof of the coach is, instead I generally want to see stuff on the sides, and under the hood.

2, longer is better, I have a 29 ft long coach in a 40 ft long space, and would not want anything much shorter to allow full walk around with the roll up door closed, I would say plan on at least 2-3 ft front and back minimum clearance on the largest coach you might consider buying.

3, a 12 ft wide doorway can feel very narrow when pulling in after a long drive, particularly in the dark. On my coach a 12 ft wide roll up door gives me just over 11 inches on each side if perfectly centered, I have came very close to taking a mirror off in the dark before.

4, at least a partial service pit would be nice it does not have to be full standing height, something that would allow sitting height on a stool would go a long way, even something on the order of a 3x6 ft 3-4 ft deep service pit would be way better than inching around on ones back, though 4x8 would be nicer.

5, a higher roof to allow for rooftop RV maintenance indoors, I have a 13 ft ceiling height which is only about 18 inches of clearance over the top of the air conditioner shroud, which means less than sitting headroom clearance working roof top on a 10+ ft tall coach, even 6-12 more inches would mean a lot. Though in my case there is a second larger shed on the farm that I can use temporarily for such tasks.

6, As to the insulation, heating, etc. I can't help you there, I live in Louisiana where the temperature rarely gets below 20-25F (we did hit 18F this week though). In my case even with 18F lows, the shed my coach is in stayed above freezing with just the lights turned on and a couple of small electric heaters running on low (one in the coach, and one in the wet bay).

p.s. on the outlet just get a 50 amp and use a 50 to 30 pigtail adapter if you currently have a 30 amp coach. I have no drain, and a smooth level floor which can be an issue with heavy rain blowing in under the roll up door which can get slippery. The smooth floor is nice when working under the coach though vs more shall we say textured concrete finishes.

Great suggestions above.

As big as you can make it. Room to work all around the coach, even put out pop-outs if possible. 14x14 door. Lights on the walls too are very helpful. I'd look into a heated floor as an option. While under construction, you may want to consider putting in a sewer dump just outside of the storage. Also consider installing an electrical connection both inside and out. I find that sometimes I prefer to work on things, polish, etc in the light of day.

The service pit is a great idea, although I'd hate to open up another side of the coach for me to obsess over!

6" slab with rigid foam insulation underneath.
Don't know what you have for fuel so you may want to think of electric heating with the wiring in the slab.
Wall mounted AC units for Summer.
Frame construction with spray foam insulation. Painted drywall for sidewalls. Exterior to match existing house.
Truss roof frame with steel roof that snow will slide off of.
50 amp service and LED lighting.
14 x 14 roll up door with a 3 x 7 man door as well.
Level floor with a 1" lip at the door to prevent rain from blowing in.
Possibly connect to sewer or septic tank for waste disposal.
Fresh water available to fill tanks.
120 volt outlets around sidewalls.

OP can you post a picture of that side of the house? Bigger door and 50' long as RVs have a way of growing. I used a swinging door...better insulation and no lost head room.

Do a Google search for RV homes for sale at TGO in Florida for ideas.

Simple. Go as BIG with everything as zoning, space, and finances will allow. You'll never have regrets going bigger with more storage space and room. Never.

About your electric hook-up? Why not just install both 30 amp and 50 amp. At least run the wire for both and have them available for hook-up. Actually, a 30 amp RV plug can easily be switched over to a normal 30 amp household plug at any time if the day comes you no longer need the 30 amp RV hook-up. You can also switch the 30 amp hook up to a different outlet, for example, for a welder if this is in your future. The wire is 30 amp serviceable, the plug used can be for anything anything that's 30 amp or less. Run the wire for both and at least you've got them available for future needs.

alliemac9 wrote:
I'm in the planning stages for an RV garage. I have a relatively short Class C, but would prefer to future-proof this structure (hence asking in the Class A area).

Anyone done this? Have any recommendations for resources or input on any of the following? Is there a better area on this forum to discuss this?

-Door size? (hoping to do 12'W x 14'H)

GOOD CHOICE

-Length? (thinking 45-50')

48 + IN 2' ADDS lUMBER WORKS BETTER

-Width? (I have more restrictions here due to setbacks, may be limited to approximately 15' - not ideal, but still excited to have indoor storage onsite)

EVERY INCH HELPS 16' IF POSSIBLE INSIDE DIMENSIONS - COACH = 8.5'DOORS ON THE UNDERSIDE WILL BE AS LARGE AS 48" SO TO ACCESS YOU NEED 18'IF AT ALL POSSIBLE.

-Slab construction? (6" reinforced w/rebar?)

GOOD - FOOTERS AND SUBGRADE - DRAINAGE CRITICAL

-Insulation considerations to keep garage above freezing?

LOOK INTO THESE GUYS OR SIMILAR - http://www.ics-rm.com/
THE MORE THE BETTER - AIR LEAKS ARE JUST AS CRITICAL - CEILING FANS TO PUSH HEAT DOWN

-Heater type?

IN COLORADO NATURAL GAS WILL BE EASIER LOWEST COST - IF YOU ARE REALLY $$$ HEATED FLOOR :)

-Dump station? (don't know if this is possible re: code)

IT'S A CLEAN OUT - THAT YOU WILL WANT - IF NOT POSSIBLE FUTURE PIPE FOR MACERATOR LINE TO EXISTING CLEAN OUT

-Ceiling height/style?

ARCHITECTURALLY FIT WITH THE HOUSE - TOO HIGH WILL WASTE HEAT

-Drain? (floor or trench? is this a must have?)

ONLY IF YOU WILL WASH IT - YES! - CENTERED SO AS TO NOT BOTHER YOU ON A CREEPER

-RV outlet - how best to implement? I would want to put a 50A plug, but I only need 30A. Is there a way to have both plugs but only one functional at a given time, so it's only one 50A circuit versus two separate circuits? Or maybe I should do two separate so I have a guest outlet in the event of a moochdocking friend? Any resources for the electrician? I've heard of people ending up with their plug wired for 220V like a dryer instead of 110V the RV needs - want to ensure the electrician is 100% clear.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Dogbone-Electrical-Adapter-PowerGrip/dp/B000BUTDCA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1515419295&sr=8-1&keywords=50+AMP+TO+30+AMP+RV+PLUG

https://www.amazon.com/Siemens-TL137US-Temporary-Receptacle-Installed/dp/B00A8FQUYW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1515419416&sr=8-1&keywords=RV+ELECTRICAL+BOX

I'm currently planning on frame construction attached to the existing two-car garage. Have two current stretch goals, if you will, that may or may not be implemented based on cost/budget considerations. These include:

IN ORDER TO GET WIDTH YOU MAY STEAL A LITTLE SPACE FROM THE COMMON WALL - THIS WILL ALLOW YOU TO OPEN THE BASEMENT DOORS - CRITICAL TO ACCESS YOUR STUFF

-Rooftop deck on back half of garage

SNOW LOADS WILL DETERMINE SIZE AND LOCATION - GET IT DESIGNED TO MEET CODE

-Laundry hookups (this is also future-proofing...the house is a ranch with laundry in the basement; if I could at least plumb it into garage I would have total single floor living if my knees ever give out on me - this may also offer options for a clean out that doubles as a dump station?)

YUP - WORKS

Any insight appreciated!

GARAGE DOOR AT EACH END - VENTILATION IN THE SUMMER - LIGHT - HEATER/GENERATOR EXHAUST VENT - SEWER VENT CONNECTION, JUST INCASE IT IS THE EXTRA BEDROOM - SMELL

Sorry for all the caps but just easier to answer - sounds great - might be cheaper/easier to just build all new house :)

Best of Luck,

edit - look these two over

https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/20600163/gotomsg/20624839.cfm#20624839">https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/20600163/gotomsg/20624839.cfm#20624839

https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/18931792/gotomsg/18936916.cfm#18936916">https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/18931792/gotomsg/18936916.cfm#18936916

do a search lot's of discussions on this.

If space allows, lay it out as a pull through, doors front and back, eliminates backing in and allows cross ventilation. make doors at least four , preferably 6 feet from the outside wall which then always provides enough manuevering room to work around the unit.
Add a slop sink or a commercial style half bath, which then provides a reason for drain line clean out for rv waste line.

A little up front cost but love the work pit idea. You can even pull the car in to do oil changes standing up.

Get a standard RV Park pedstal. It has 50amp, 30amp and a standard household outlet.

If it's not directly adjacent, you can get a macerator pump to handle sewage disposal and send it thru a small hose to the house pump out.

Are you really going to use the RV in the winter? If not, it may make more sense to winterize the RV and not spend the money to heat it all winter....plus if there is a power outage no concerns.

Obviously, the bigger the better, but we just when through this a few years ago and found the following to be adequate:

- Door size: 12'W x 14'H works fine.
- Length: 48' inside dimension to handle any size RV
- Width: 15' provides sufficient space to open all the basement doors
- Slab construction: 6" thick, 4000 psi fiber reinforced concrete w/rebar.
- Insulation: Not yet, but will probably install fiberglass batts when/if the time comes (Spray foam is a bit $$$).
- Heater type: Not yet, but will most likely install a wood stove since I do not need to keep it heated 24/7.
- Dump station: outside in driveway
- Ceiling height: 16' on RV side
- Drain: Many building codes do not allow drains and/or pits due to the possibility of flammable fluids/fumes collecting in low points.
- RV outlet: 50A plugs both inside (near rear of coach) and outside (in front of garage) wired properly for NEMA 14-50 receptacles.


This garage is not attached to the house and was designed to look somewhat like a barn in the back yard. It also has a 32'(W)x 22'(D) x 13'(H) attachment on one side with two 10'x10' doors and one normal entry door for a workshop. The 13' height was required for a car lift. Walls are 2x6, 24" on center and all the roofing utilizes trusses so there are no interior columns for an open work space. Storage trusses were used on the car garage side to provide a 11'(W) x 22'(D) storage area good for 40 lbs/sq ft. We also used a dark (charcoal grey) metal roof and the snow simply slides off all winter long. Good luck with your build.

Lou
05 Travel Supreme Envoy