RV Garage Construction - Any Tips?

alliemac9 wrote:
I'm in the planning stages for an RV garage. I have a relatively short Class C, but would prefer to future-proof this structure (hence asking in the Class A area).

Anyone done this? Have any recommendations for resources or input on any of the following? Is there a better area on this forum to discuss this?

-Door size? (hoping to do 12'W x 14'H)

GOOD CHOICE

-Length? (thinking 45-50')

48 + IN 2' ADDS lUMBER WORKS BETTER

-Width? (I have more restrictions here due to setbacks, may be limited to approximately 15' - not ideal, but still excited to have indoor storage onsite)

EVERY INCH HELPS 16' IF POSSIBLE INSIDE DIMENSIONS - COACH = 8.5'DOORS ON THE UNDERSIDE WILL BE AS LARGE AS 48" SO TO ACCESS YOU NEED 18'IF AT ALL POSSIBLE.

-Slab construction? (6" reinforced w/rebar?)

GOOD - FOOTERS AND SUBGRADE - DRAINAGE CRITICAL

-Insulation considerations to keep garage above freezing?

LOOK INTO THESE GUYS OR SIMILAR - http://www.ics-rm.com/
THE MORE THE BETTER - AIR LEAKS ARE JUST AS CRITICAL - CEILING FANS TO PUSH HEAT DOWN

-Heater type?

IN COLORADO NATURAL GAS WILL BE EASIER LOWEST COST - IF YOU ARE REALLY $$$ HEATED FLOOR :)

-Dump station? (don't know if this is possible re: code)

IT'S A CLEAN OUT - THAT YOU WILL WANT - IF NOT POSSIBLE FUTURE PIPE FOR MACERATOR LINE TO EXISTING CLEAN OUT

-Ceiling height/style?

ARCHITECTURALLY FIT WITH THE HOUSE - TOO HIGH WILL WASTE HEAT

-Drain? (floor or trench? is this a must have?)

ONLY IF YOU WILL WASH IT - YES! - CENTERED SO AS TO NOT BOTHER YOU ON A CREEPER

-RV outlet - how best to implement? I would want to put a 50A plug, but I only need 30A. Is there a way to have both plugs but only one functional at a given time, so it's only one 50A circuit versus two separate circuits? Or maybe I should do two separate so I have a guest outlet in the event of a moochdocking friend? Any resources for the electrician? I've heard of people ending up with their plug wired for 220V like a dryer instead of 110V the RV needs - want to ensure the electrician is 100% clear.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Dogbone-Electrical-Adapter-PowerGrip/dp/B000BUTDCA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1515419295&sr=8-1&keywords=50+AMP+TO+30+AMP+RV+PLUG

https://www.amazon.com/Siemens-TL137US-Temporary-Receptacle-Installed/dp/B00A8FQUYW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1515419416&sr=8-1&keywords=RV+ELECTRICAL+BOX

I'm currently planning on frame construction attached to the existing two-car garage. Have two current stretch goals, if you will, that may or may not be implemented based on cost/budget considerations. These include:

IN ORDER TO GET WIDTH YOU MAY STEAL A LITTLE SPACE FROM THE COMMON WALL - THIS WILL ALLOW YOU TO OPEN THE BASEMENT DOORS - CRITICAL TO ACCESS YOUR STUFF

-Rooftop deck on back half of garage

SNOW LOADS WILL DETERMINE SIZE AND LOCATION - GET IT DESIGNED TO MEET CODE

-Laundry hookups (this is also future-proofing...the house is a ranch with laundry in the basement; if I could at least plumb it into garage I would have total single floor living if my knees ever give out on me - this may also offer options for a clean out that doubles as a dump station?)

YUP - WORKS

Any insight appreciated!

GARAGE DOOR AT EACH END - VENTILATION IN THE SUMMER - LIGHT - HEATER/GENERATOR EXHAUST VENT - SEWER VENT CONNECTION, JUST INCASE IT IS THE EXTRA BEDROOM - SMELL

Sorry for all the caps but just easier to answer - sounds great - might be cheaper/easier to just build all new house :)

Best of Luck,

edit - look these two over

https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/20600163/gotomsg/20624839.cfm#20624839">https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/20600163/gotomsg/20624839.cfm#20624839

https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/18931792/gotomsg/18936916.cfm#18936916">https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/18931792/gotomsg/18936916.cfm#18936916

do a search lot's of discussions on this.