sgueaky door while driving

Are you sure it's the door, and not the bunk board against the roof of the cab?

Quite frequently, squeaks develop here because the screws they use to attach the bunk board to the cab work loose or rust out. You can get at them by removing the trim and pulling the headliner material away. (On my RV, at least, it's also necessary to unscrew the visors and their clips, etc. to get the headliner out of the way...in any case, it should be pretty obvious how it works with a bit of examination.)

I found this exact problem, and have cured it--I hope for good--by adding a dozen countersunk carriage bolts clear through the bunk board and putting flat washers and nylock nuts on the underside to secure them together much more sturdily than the little screws that were there. I have an even bigger grin on my face when driving down the road now than I did previously.

Sometimes there are cabinets etc. that can also squeak some as things move because they're not tightened down properly, but the bunk board is the more common problem.

Try fitting some plastic between the dead bolt and the dead bolt receptacle so that the dead bolt does not rub metal on metal.

Close the deadbolt?

Is the noise coming from the glass window in the door moving in it's plastic frame? I took the frame apart and "gooped" window and frame with sealer and installed the window. It is possible that the door itself is rubbing in the door frame as you bounce merrily down the road. There should be some kind of material the keeps the door from moving in the frame when it is shut and latched. Winnebago probably can probably tell you how to adjust/fix the door.

Try spraying some silicon spray around the door on the rubber seals and hinges. Silicon won't harm the rubber.

Window was mentioned. Does the noise change drastically is the window is lowered an inch or so ?

Also since you mentioned Styrofoam.....sometimes there IS rigid foam insulation inside the door panels.

Sam Spade wrote:
Window was mentioned. Does the noise change drastically is the window is lowered an inch or so ?

Also since you mentioned Styrofoam.....sometimes there IS rigid foam insulation inside the door panels.

Along the same lines, it would be most helpful with diagnosis to know which door you're talking about--in particular whether it's one of the cab chassis doors or an entrance door in the house part of the motorhome. The two do vary considerably in construction and hardware.

I have the very same problem with the latch on our 2011 Cambria 30C. I just keep a small can of WD40 or similar product handy and spray the area when needed. I have adjusted the lock several times but it doesn't seem to help much. I can see a wear pattern on the latch pin. I've even used Chapstik in a pinch and it really does make a difference.

jimintomah wrote:
I have the very same problem with the latch on our 2011 Cambria 30C. I just keep a small can of WD40 or similar product handy and spray the area when needed.

WD40 is NOT a good lubricant; never was intended to be.
Yes, even chapstick is better.

Even better would be a dab of white lithium grease or silicone brake grease.

Sam Spade wrote:

jimintomah wrote:
I have the very same problem with the latch on our 2011 Cambria 30C. I just keep a small can of WD40 or similar product handy and spray the area when needed.

WD40 is NOT a good lubricant; never was intended to be.
Yes, even chapstick is better.

Even better would be a dab of white lithium grease or silicone brake grease.

WD40 is a lubricant. Once the hydrocarbons have evaporated a light film of oil remains.
There is also a silicone lubricant offered under the WD40 brand name.