Shoreline and generator not charging

Perform these checks with shore line connecter or generator running. Measure all voltages relative to ground. The problem could be:

Bad batteries not accepting a charge. Verify at least 13V at the batteries. If there is, then the converter is good but the batteries may be bad or the connections are too dirty. Clean the connections and see if it helps before replacing the batteries.

Bad or dying converter. If 12v systems (lights, thermostat, etc.) work when plugged in, converter is probably ok, but check output voltage to be at least 13v, enough to charge batteries.

Disconnect solenoid that is operated by the disconnect switch is failing. This is the item that clunks when the switch is pushed. When batteries are on, there should be at least 13v at each of the 2 big lugs relative to ground. One lug is connected to the batteries. The other goes to the converter.

Last check is the inline fuse or circuit breaker. It will be inline in the positive cable from the batteries. Again, should be at least 13v on each lug relative to ground.

Good luck.

Oh, and be sure your volt meter measures colonial volts and not imperial volts - kidding.

What is voltage at the house batteries? As Cliff said, a smart converter will NOT try to charge a deeply discharged battery.

Have you verified 120 VAC to the converter? If plugged into a house-style outlet, plug something else into it to verify.

You need to check your converter or inverter/charger for proper operation.

If you recently serviced the battery and reconnected the battery with reverse polarity you may have opened a fuse.

Post the model number of the charging system for best answers.

When shoreline is plugged in breakers are on and all appliances work ie microwave,tv,skybox,soundbar washing machine etc but it’s not charging the battery’s,and the same with the With the generator starts up but won’t change the battery’s.

Well we ran the list
Using a volt meter check the output of the converter In my case that's as far as I got (Lift the battery negative lead first)
Then if you have 13.6 or better abd the Reverse Polarity fuses are good (if they are not you will have nothing) move out along the battery lead till it drops.. or test light goes out (Since the battery is not connected)
Problem exists between bright and dark

IF interior lights do hot work with battery negative listed The converter or RP fuses are most likely

Thanks for your imputes It’s now fixed,it was a faulty trip switch that was reading on but no power coming out.

prento wrote:
Thanks for your imputes It’s now fixed,it was a faulty trip switch that was reading on but no power coming out.

A faulty trip switch WHERE?

Often when they work on out coach they will trip or tun off the generator output switch or whatever its proper a name is. Did at Freightliner two weeks ago and we though we faced another huge expense.
Ours is in an 05 Revolution and opening the hood or cowl there is a switch a lever on the right side at the top.