Shower mixing valve

Get the same brand that you are replacing, then maybe all the fixtures and plumbing will line up and fit perfectly.

What will fix the problem is a check valve in the hot water pipe at the shower. Due to pressure losses in the piping, the cold water will back-fill the hot water piping to the hot water heater. The check valve will give your problems when it comes time to winterize, as you cannot blow down the hot water line to where it branches from the sink. The mixing valves John linked, are real nice for S&B, but present the same problem when time to winterize. I have found that once the water is hot, turn it down as low as possible, and mix in the cold, then switch to the shower head. This, for me, prevents the large temperature swings that happen when shutting off the water flow. The DW now is a different story, she turns the hot wide open, then mixes the cold, and complains about being out of hot water.

downtheroad wrote:
Pick one that you like from Lowe's, Home Depot, etc.
Moen, American Standard, Delta, etc. and plumb it in to your existing piping (assuming you have access to it).

Plumbing fixtures are not RV specific, they are usually just cheap, plastic, light weight.

X2. RV plumbing stuff is often junk. I think the MFG's do this to save weight and money. The thing is, I'd love 1 more pound for a quality faucet & faucets are usually not the cheapest addition. Home Depot or Lowes will sell a much better one.

The hot/cold when you re-start after cut off is because of some laws of physics I really do not care to get into here. they also eplain why it will be a cold blast one time and hot the net.

The solution is do not FULLY cut off flow,, Let it dribble a bit.. This is how Oygenics does it with their "Smart Pulse" cut off valve.

But and even better solution is the valves I linked to in my last post.

We also found that if you turn on just the hot water, let it get hot, then start adding cold until comfortable we didn't get the cold spurts if we turned it on and off ( we have that feature on our showerhead). Don't try to mix it to temperature like you do in a house. Try the above and see if it works.

Found what you need
Style #1, Surface mount, Two knobs, hand held shower. Fits MY RV...Eventually

Style 2. this is a "Behind the wall" single control near as I can tell

These are "Set the temp and they self adjust if someone flushes" type shower valves by the way.

Make sure your outside shower valves are closed.

as the others stated, get a Moen and be done with it. Replace ours back in 2005, along with the Kitchen and bath and no more issues. Easy adapted to pex or copper.

Fishinfrank8 wrote:
I have a 2015 Bounder 33C and the show is either cold or hot nothing in between. I ordered a replacement on the internet same quality. Who makes a quality mixing valve for RV's?

You might want to try a Moen valve from Home Depot, Lowes or any of a number of other home improvement stores. We replaced the one in our 2001 Winnebago Adventurer for the same reason.

If Fleetwood is the same as Winnebago they use standard off the shelf style valves. The main difference between those used in a sticks and bricks house and those used in a motorhome is the ones used in motorhomes are made of plastic. The motorhome builders just use an adaptor to connect to the plastic tubing.

Now that tubing is becoming more standard in sticks and bricks homes you may be able to find a replacement complete with the tube fittings. In our case we had to transfer the adaptors from the original valve to the new one.

Pick one that you like from Lowe's, Home Depot, etc.
Moen, American Standard, Delta, etc. and plumb it in to your existing piping (assuming you have access to it).

Plumbing fixtures are not RV specific, they are usually just cheap, plastic, light weight.