Shower Pan cracked

I like the Flex Seal idea, seems like it would work just fine.

Thank you iamcanuck45 for suggesting JB Weld Water weld. Hopefully this will take care of our problem in our 2000 Fleetwood 36 ft 5'er shower pan. Since I can't locate with the shower seat attached to shower pan. I also wanted to thank everyone on the ideas of this topic Shower pan cracked.
Ben

Check out this product... http://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-waterweld/

I have used J B Weld's products before and they are fantastic. I would still recommend that you somehow support the pan from underneath. Use wood 2 x's or foam. If you use foam consider using SM type rigid foam as blocks. Spray foam could push up on the pan and make a mess if not careful.
I have been following this thread from the beginning, but some people say that the older you get, the longer it takes for ideas to click in. Good luck with your repairs, and let us know what you decided to do.:S

Is the risk of further leaks and potential damage to your coach really worth the savings of simply replacing the shower pan and being done with it?

If it was me (which it isn't) I would skip the fiberglass cloth unless you've done fiberglass work before. Getting good adhesion and a smooth job is not so easy. Also the likely hood is the shower pan is chopped sprayed which is hard to work with and the last thing you want is to make the crack any worst.

Now back to me. I would get that two part putty (they make different types, look for one that would make sense for your application) for about 5-8 dollars, lightly rough up the surface around the crack about 3/4 inch wide, dry well with a hair dryer, mix the putty and force it into the crack and along the roughed up area. Smooth with my thumb to make a good looking (but ugly) job. Once dry cover it up with a nice $10 bath mat.

Now I would still us the spray foam. When I picked up the putty at the big box store I would pick up maybe two cans for $4 each. Make sure it is the expanding type of foam. If you've never used it before then I would suggest doing just one spot about 6 inches round with it under the pan and plywood. Give it about 4 hours and see what you got and how much it expanded. With that knowledge use the rest of the foam as you see fit to stiffen the underside of the shower pan.

By the way, that foam can expand a lot and even crack the shower pan if you're overly generous with it. That's also the reason for a small test spot first.

Thanks for the information, it made it come together in my mind. Not sure why, but I kept envisioning that I would need to go up the sides and over the lip as well. You're advice sounds much easier, less time consuming and overall will produce better results.

Should I go heavy on the fiberglass, sand it level but rough it and apply a second coat of fiber over the first or will one application last?

Now, the crawl space under the tub is close to 8 inches of dead space between bottom of RV and underside of tub enclosure. It has 4x4 (guessing at size) type of blocks that reinforces it at the center with no weight distribution whatsoever. If I were to do the spray foam I think the cost would be very high given this large gap. I am open to ideas on the most cost effective way to reinforce the tub.

I am thinking 2 or 3 points of contact (the 4x4's) with a small enough, cut to fit, sheet of plywood between the contact points and bottom of enclosure. I may need to cut it in half to get it thru the opening and would have room to put it together somehow, screws or glue, inside the opening. Only way I can think of reinforcing it, sure hope you guys have a better idea or tips to make mine work well.


Thanks,
Curtis D.M.

All of the above is good stuff. Just wanted to add you can always use a tub mat to cover up the repair job. They also sell two part epoxy putty (Home Depot, Lowes) that might work to seal the crack.

Don't forget to stiffen the pan from below so it will not flex anymore. If you can, spray foam is a simple and durable fix.

First use a coarse grinding disk on your electric drill to rough up the surface so you will have a good bond. Buy some fg matt and resin. Clean the surface with acetone. Cut the matt to fit and cover the entire floor. The thicker the matt you use the stronger the floor. Mix your resin and hardner. Use an old paint brush or buy a matt roller. Soak the matt thoroughly. You can add gel coat color pigment to the resin before adding hardner. Mix it thoroughly. Otherwise you can add a coat of colored gel coat after the matt dries. With practice it is easy to have a nice uniform surface. But if you havent had experience it might look a little rough but it will be sealed and very strong.

I am having the same problem and was considering an entire fiberglass covering of my own doing. My main concern was the fiberglass sticking/adhering to the plastic tub enclosure. From the short google searches I have done it says using an acetone cleaner of sorts before applying the fiberglass will allow it to adhere better.

I wanted to go with fiberglass over the 17 year old plastic tub as I think it will provide better support and many more years of service. Does anyone not agree with this?

OP what did you finally decide to do and how did it turn out? I am also not sure of how much fiberglass to buy for an approximately 24" by 36" enclosure if anyone can weigh in on that.

Also, on the outside of my small shower is a "door" that allows access to under the tub enclosure. My tub is being held up by what appears to be Lincoln Logs, so was going to reinforce that as well.

Sorry if anyone thinks I am hijacking this thread, but didn't want to have another "my plastic tub is cracked and leaking thread" when we have one already.

Curtis aka Deranged Marine


Edit: I have also tried the rubberized repair tape and a spray on type of "rubber" and they worked for a few months, but due to me not reinforcing the undercarriage one of the cracks has opened back up, not to mention how ugly it looks with tape and spray on it.

Here is my two cents worth. Some motorhomes do NOT have enough bracing under the shower er go cracked shower pan. If you decide to remove it all together, remember that the pan is raised to provide room for the "P" trap. This could cause you a problem. Removing the pan will give you the opportunity to add bracing underneath the pan to prevent a second replacement later.
Good luck with your problem.
Fixing it is a good idea to prevent water damage under the pan as it is a wood floor under the shower.