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Fifty4F100's avatar
Fifty4F100
Explorer
May 12, 2013

Shurflow pump won't work

OK I finally found my water pump. It was hidden in plain sight. To help my lowered ego, it was directly behind my main drain line (read: 3 1/2" pump behind a 4" pipe).

Now for my real problem. The pump worked great until we used it the 1st time this spring which leads me to think that it froze and was damaged over the winter. I did use the compressed air method for ridding the lines of water. We last used the MH for a late October vacation. There are are no other freeze problems with the rig. I don't know (other than using the alternative 10 gallons of RV antifreeze method) what I could have done. It looks like some water could have pooled in the diaphragm area. But I don't know why even freezing would cause the pump not to be at least turning now. It won't budge. I can see the power drop (lights dimming) when the pump is turned on, but nothing happens.

Do I need a new pump?
Class A
  • Fifty4F100's avatar
    Fifty4F100
    Explorer
    May 16, 2013
    Now for my new dilemma. What would be a good way to get the pump to stay in place while I hook up the water lines? I've tried a 2"X, but it keeps sliding out. Its just to far in to reach with both hands. If I hold it in place with one hand, I can't reach the water line with the other. Its about 3' inboard from the hatch.

    Got the new pump from a local RV dealer. Its not exact. I had to get the mounting bracket off the old pump and put in on the new. The new bracket was rubber and I thought it would hold down some vibration noise, but it was about 1/2" deeper and the water line wouldn't come close to fitting. I don't like moving 14 year old pex plumbing lines that much!

    Old pump "Made in USA", new MEXICO! More jobs gone!!
  • Fifty4F100's avatar
    Fifty4F100
    Explorer
    May 14, 2013
    Old-Biscuit wrote:
    Wires in the pump end go to the pressure switch then to motor.
    Pressure switch closes (loss of pressure) and motor runs.
    Pressure switch opens (pressure set point reached) and motor stops.

    Pumps are self priming and can run dry w/o damage.

    Air leaks on suction side of pump will cause lack of water being pumped....can't suck water when it's sucking air

    Anyway..thought you stated pump wouldn't turn on......motor wouldn't move....lights dimmed etc. from frozen pump :H


    When I got the pump all the way out I found what you are saying. I took the pump all the way apart and hooked it up to a 12v source and still only a slight bump and a froze motor. It has 1999 stamped on the side as a build date so it is time for a new one. A local RV dealer has one (or the new model number from this decade from ShurFlo) for $103. Hopefully they didn't change mounting points too much.
  • Old-Biscuit's avatar
    Old-Biscuit
    Explorer III
    May 13, 2013
    Wires in the pump end go to the pressure switch then to motor.
    Pressure switch closes (loss of pressure) and motor runs.
    Pressure switch opens (pressure set point reached) and motor stops.

    Pumps are self priming and can run dry w/o damage.

    Air leaks on suction side of pump will cause lack of water being pumped....can't suck water when it's sucking air

    Anyway..thought you stated pump wouldn't turn on......motor wouldn't move....lights dimmed etc. from frozen pump :H
  • Fifty4F100's avatar
    Fifty4F100
    Explorer
    May 13, 2013
    Upon working on the pump (still have just a little to go), I have noticed that there are 2 red wires plugged into the diaphram end of the pump and a black (I'm assuming this is the ground like with autos) wire come out of the bottom of the pump motor with one of the red wires. Is this a safety type switch to make sure the pump has a volume of water to trigger the power?

    I'm going to try and get some water to run out of the line coming from the holding tank and see if it will fire up. I thought it had plenty of water in the tank the last time I tried it and it still didn't work.
  • Fifty4F100's avatar
    Fifty4F100
    Explorer
    May 13, 2013
    Jim@HiTek wrote:
    To winterize, I always remove the pump and drain the water out after I blow out the lines. It's necessary, like draining the hot water tank. But mine is easy to get to.


    I'm about to find out how easy mine is to get too. Its right behind the poopoo drain, so I'm going to have to wash good after its out.
  • Doug_and_Cassi_'s avatar
    Doug_and_Cassi_
    Explorer
    May 13, 2013
    Mine takes two gallons also. To use ten it would have to include several gallons in heater.
  • Jim's avatar
    Jim
    Explorer
    May 13, 2013
    To winterize, I always remove the pump and drain the water out after I blow out the lines. It's necessary, like draining the hot water tank. But mine is easy to get to.
  • tommy_g's avatar
    tommy_g
    Explorer
    May 13, 2013
    I can't figure out where 10 gal would go once you bypass the water heater. Mine takes 1 1/2 for the lines and I use the other 1/2 for traps and toilet.
  • Fifty4F100's avatar
    Fifty4F100
    Explorer
    May 12, 2013
    Old-Biscuit wrote:
    Yep......new pump

    In the future the suction side of pump and pump need to be clear of any water.

    That's why they have a 'winterizing kit'.
    Basically a 'T' in suction line with a hose and valve on it.
    Stick hose in bottle of anti-freeze, turn valve so pump sucks from bottle and turn pump on. Sucks anti-freeze from bottle thru pump.
    You can pump anti-freeze thru system (hot/cold------bypass water heater)
    Or just blow out the lines with air.

    Anti-freeze is cheaper than pumps.


    Again my owners manual says this method takes 10 gallons - only somewhat cheaper than a pump but much easier to install! My former 5th wheel had a winterizing system on it. It only took 2 gallons total.
  • 2ndhom's avatar
    2ndhom
    Explorer
    May 12, 2013
    If you can disconnect the terminals AT the pump and jump them with 12 volt ..... try it first. This making sure it's grounded etc.

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