Forum Discussion
- Dutch_12078Explorer II
happy-2 wrote:
You don't really need a secondary brake system,only if it makes you feel better.
Or you don't believe in the laws of physics... :R - Dutch_12078Explorer II
Bumpyroad wrote:
OLYLEN wrote:
.
Drill two holes one in the firewall at the lower end of the brake pedal and one in the front. Run the cable between the two hole cut to length.
LEN
you make drilling holes in the firewall to sound so easy. I scoped it out when I had my brake buddy, couldn't see anywhere to do it, (have you seen a modern cars firewall lately?) and just ran the wires out from the hood, into the door.
bumpy
Yes, I looked at quite a few new car firewalls when shopping for a new toad. I did not see any that could not be fitted with a ReadyBrake cable setup. The hole does NOT need to line up perfectly with the brake pedal arm. It can be offset either way up to the width of the brake pedal. Even double firewalls are not difficult to deal with. - happy-2ExplorerYou don't really need a secondary brake system,only if it makes you feel better.
- BumpyroadExplorer
OLYLEN wrote:
.
Drill two holes one in the firewall at the lower end of the brake pedal and one in the front. Run the cable between the two hole cut to length.
LEN
you make drilling holes in the firewall to sound so easy. I scoped it out when I had my brake buddy, couldn't see anywhere to do it, (have you seen a modern cars firewall lately?) and just ran the wires out from the hood, into the door.
bumpy - OLYLENExplorerThe Ready brute system is a 2-3 hour install even for a club foot. Use any base plate as there is a conversion for them and the hitch is a wash with any system.
Drill two holes one in the firewall at the lower end of the brake pedal and one in the front. Run the cable between the two hole cut to length. Install tow bar and run lights as with about any brake system. I use blue Ox base plate and a wireless brake light turn system, took another 1/2 hour. Unhook and reinstall in just the tow bar. No Elec fuses to pull or supply from the coach or toad needed. Only down side for my install is the lights for the toad as LED with batteries, and that is a small thing. Cost including base plate witch was $400 plus a couple about $1800 total. OH that's with all the safety cables et all.
LEN - Two_JayhawksExplorer
bigdog2 wrote:
I think the ready brute system is the easiest,once installed all you do is connect the cable. It's all mechanical, so no fuses, etc.
readybrake.com
X2 - mikestockExplorer
FIRE UP wrote:
Mikestock,
Well, you've been given a few choices here. After using the Ready Brake for a few years and, basically liking it, I decided I'd check out the M & G Braking system. Without a doubt, it by far is seriously easy to install in the toad. And, it's equally easy to install in the coach side too. The instructions are plain and simple to follow and, if there's any doubt or, issue or, questions, the company is right there to answer any.
The install on the toad side took me about an hour and, on the coach side about 1/2 an hour. It is a totally progressive and proportional braking system. And, the really, REALLY good part is, there's no intrusion inside the toad. You see no parts, no robots pushing on the brake pedal, no air cylinders, no cables, nothing. You don't have to lift a robot into the floor of the toad, setup the clamping mechanism on the brake pedal or anything like that.
In fact, the only connection between the coach and the toad is, a spring loaded air line. You have quick release fittings on both ends. It takes all of about 5 seconds to hook both ends up and, YOU'RE DONE.
Another really good and, important point of this system is, since it does NOT PUSH ON THE BRAKE PEDAL, it does not ACTIVATE the toads brake lights via the toads brake pedal brake light switch. That's really important if you're intending on using the toads tail lights as toad lights.
And, since you're a "DIY" type, you can install this in a short amount of time. Below are a couple of pics of the unit and, the installation of the two components of the system. The toads actuator and, the coaches air line connections. Plus the fitting on the front of the toad, (in our case, a 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 Extended Cab 4x4) and, the quick release air fitting on the back of the coach, just to the left of the receiver.
Scott
Sounds very interesting. I do have air brakes and will definitely look at this. I like the ease of setup and the $650 price. I presume this covers everything except there seems to be no breakaway feature. Moving from one towed to another looks like the only drawback. - kalynzooExplorerI'm very happy with my ReadyBrake system. Just a wire from the front of the towed to the brake peddle. I'm sure it can be self installed if your up to that sort of thing. I had it installed by a technician as I had concerns about drilling through the firewall (and missing all the important stuff there) and I really don't crawl around under the car anymore. But there is nothing technical, no interruption of brake lines and no attachment to power.
- ILVMYGTExplorerYou didn't state the type of motorhome you have. We have a Diesel pusher with air brakes. I installed an Air Force One and am very happy with it. The install was not too bad. I had a pit available and that made it easier when I tied into the brake air line. I like the ease of connecting it up (plug the air line in and connect safety cable and go.)
- The SMI Air Force is another good option with air brakes.
SMI Air Force
About Motorhome Group
38,707 PostsLatest Activity: Jan 05, 2014