Solar info

Hi,

I find the handybob site a waste of time.

Good reading, some of it controversial:

http://www.jackdanmayer.com/rv_electrical_and_solar.htm

http://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/

bigdave720 wrote:
Also, maybe everyone who's using solar could list their equipment including how many and what size panels you're using, how they're mounted, tilt or not, charge controller, wiring runs and wire size, inverters, converters, monitors, etc.

Forum Members Solar Installations With Pics

Off generator generally means no air conditioning but the rest can run on 200 to 600 watts.

trik-l-start combiner will send power to the chassis battery to keep it charged.

I bought my primary equipment at www.solarblvd.com

You can start your studies here.

What part of the country do you use your RV in. Solar battery charging is NOT a reliable source of power unless you camp where the sun shines most of the time. Cloudy/rainy days will reduce the output of my 800w solar array from 40-42a to less than 10a. In most areas of the country you still will need a generator for those cloudy days.

Jim

How much does all of that cost? How easy is it to travel with and then set up?

My equipment on a 2013 Leisure Travel Vans Unity MB:
Five GS100 100 watt solar panels wired in parallel, Vmpp = 17.7 volts, Impp = 5.7 amps, 40.8"x20.7"x1.38", 14.5 lbs., panels mounted slightly off flat to shed water, could add 45 degree tilt bars, 10/2 UV resistant cable panels to combiner box
AM Solar Roof C-Box, 4 gauge wire with 50 amp circuit breaker combiner box to controller
Blue Sky Energy Solar Boost 3024i MPPT controller, IPN-ProRemote w/battery monitor, temperature compensation, 50mv/500amp Shunt Kit, 2 gauge wire with disconnect controller to batteries
Four Fullriver DC220-6 6-volt 220 AH AGM batteries for 440 AH total
Magnum MS2000 inverter/charger, temperature compensation, Magnum ME-RC50 Remote Control, 2 gauge wire with catastrophic fuse to batteries
120-volt AC subpanel, disconnected converter

Hi Bigdave,

What sort of RV are we working with?

Start with an energy audit.

If you wish to eliminate generator use then plan on at least 3 days of battery capacity. I'd lean towards 150 watts (or more) of solar per 100 amp-hours (@ 12 volts) of storage.

To be able to "saturation charge", equalization, and desulfation, I'd design for two equally sized banks with inexpensive individual perko switches so that one bank can be charged while the other one is in use. For heavy draws such as the water heater, both switches can be in the on position. Mine double as a disconnect switches to the inverter.

Plan on a quality inverter large enough to power the combined loads plus 25%.

It may be wise to consider twin 24 volt banks. That way a 4000 watt inverter could be used.

After doing an assessment of the roof for suitable shade free locations, consider adding a fold down solar "wing" on the side opposite the awning. With proper design that will allow for tilting the major portion of the solar panels, while providing shade to the RV's wall. I'd use hinges on each panel with a locking mechanism at the bottom with "tilt sticks" for support when they are deployed.