spark plug change 99 v10
my 1999 Coachman with the v10 ford engine has 80k miles and still runs good with the original plugs.I decided it,s time for a change.I've read all the tips about pulling the coil pacs,blowing the hole...
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I have its little brother 5.4. I read all I could about it. Not that big of deal AFTER (that is) after you're done.
When I bought the plugs I also got a chuck of rubber hose that fits onto the top metal thing top of plug, at home I put a bolt through the rubber hose(making rubber stiff) so I could put plug back in nice and straight and turn by hand (not wrench) to make sure I wasn't cross threading. I read pluses and minus of anti-seize. Read some debate on both sides. Both convincing, came to conclusion that anti-seize would only assist in working plug looser and make it easier for them to blow plugs out. But that is me. You might not like that idea, do what you think is best. Also found (if wrench room is tight) that the rubber thing on the inside of the spark plug wrench didn't help. I used a magnate grip thing to lift plugs out of holes, worked fine for me. I also used a q-tip to put dielectric grease on inside of cop boot. Not a lot but inside well coated. Vaseline also worked for me on the little rubber donuts on fuel injector ports. I also wanted to know what the torque was as I removed plugs. Old style dial type torque wrenches allows you to see that, newer clickable ones don't.
After 9,000 miles since changing plugs (or 3 oil changes) I re-torqued just to make sure and all were fine.
There is a lot of info about them. But in your reading make sure your reading article with the model and plug and head you have. Read several articles that author was jumping up and down about something and didn't find out till end of article that he was working on different model. I think it is a good idea sticking with OEM Ford plugs. I have no idea why, but many people changing plugs or problems using non OEM plugs. I had to remove some wires and rubber tubes, I took pic's so to prevent any hassle when putting back together.
Some M/H's should only be towed from one end or other. Every time I turn a wrench on mine I back in so in case of big mess up and RV needs to be towed it is pointing the right way for tow truck, just in case. Hasn't happen yet, but just in case I'm ready, instead of damaging springs or suspension because of towing the wrong way. And watch those screws on cop's. One fell down in the valley and I couldn't fish it out. Had to make separate trip to junk yard or buy entire new cop.
After finishing pat yourself on back (twice)for saving about $400.00 at least in my case by doing it yourself.
You won't need it but I was going to do the "time-cert" thing if something went wrong.
Can't think of anything else....Good Luck..
When I bought the plugs I also got a chuck of rubber hose that fits onto the top metal thing top of plug, at home I put a bolt through the rubber hose(making rubber stiff) so I could put plug back in nice and straight and turn by hand (not wrench) to make sure I wasn't cross threading. I read pluses and minus of anti-seize. Read some debate on both sides. Both convincing, came to conclusion that anti-seize would only assist in working plug looser and make it easier for them to blow plugs out. But that is me. You might not like that idea, do what you think is best. Also found (if wrench room is tight) that the rubber thing on the inside of the spark plug wrench didn't help. I used a magnate grip thing to lift plugs out of holes, worked fine for me. I also used a q-tip to put dielectric grease on inside of cop boot. Not a lot but inside well coated. Vaseline also worked for me on the little rubber donuts on fuel injector ports. I also wanted to know what the torque was as I removed plugs. Old style dial type torque wrenches allows you to see that, newer clickable ones don't.
After 9,000 miles since changing plugs (or 3 oil changes) I re-torqued just to make sure and all were fine.
There is a lot of info about them. But in your reading make sure your reading article with the model and plug and head you have. Read several articles that author was jumping up and down about something and didn't find out till end of article that he was working on different model. I think it is a good idea sticking with OEM Ford plugs. I have no idea why, but many people changing plugs or problems using non OEM plugs. I had to remove some wires and rubber tubes, I took pic's so to prevent any hassle when putting back together.
Some M/H's should only be towed from one end or other. Every time I turn a wrench on mine I back in so in case of big mess up and RV needs to be towed it is pointing the right way for tow truck, just in case. Hasn't happen yet, but just in case I'm ready, instead of damaging springs or suspension because of towing the wrong way. And watch those screws on cop's. One fell down in the valley and I couldn't fish it out. Had to make separate trip to junk yard or buy entire new cop.
After finishing pat yourself on back (twice)for saving about $400.00 at least in my case by doing it yourself.
You won't need it but I was going to do the "time-cert" thing if something went wrong.
Can't think of anything else....Good Luck..
