Storing motorhome for a year

YnotTurbo wrote:
Using shrink wrap with Damp-Rid keeps the moisture out of the unit. Even in the winter time I use Damp-Rid in my boat when shrink wrapped. So,,if you have never used shrink wrap before you might want to do some research before telling someone not to try something that could protect a persons RV. A good shrink wrap job also has vents built into the plastic.

What you are missing is the fact that he is in Florida while you're in Maryland. You shrink wrap during the winter months when the air is dry and peoples lips and hands develop cracks. He's in Florida during the hot humid rainy season where you could grow gills. A $10 bucket of Damprid ain't going to cut it. Simple non solar vents ain't going to do it either.

Side Note: SeaFoam is a fuel stabilizer. Just read the can.

Skip the SeaFoam and use a stabilizer - which SF is not.

1. Do not cover or shrink wrap here in FL. Humidity will have your coach a "moldy" mess in a short time. John is right about the "kiss of death". Also, you can't run your roof top a/c with a cover.
2. Go to storage and run that generator at least once a month for at least an hour with the a/c running.
3. Buy some of the flexible thin cutting board type mats. You can get them at Bed/Bath/Beyond in a 4 pack. Put them down for your tires to set on.
4. One year should not be a problem, just check your roof every 3 months and especially after one of our summer downpours.
5. Pay attention to rodent dropping in your bays. If you see any, put out some traps.
6. If you have max-air vents over you roof openings, leave them barely cracked (1/2") to help release some of the summer heat. Temps inside will reach high 90's and even low 100's at times.
7. If you can, rotate the direction of the parked coach every month to help with keeping any sun damage consistent on both sides.
8. Get the fuel tank as full as possible to help keep condensation down and bring a 5 gallon jug of fuel and refill after a few monthly runs. The worst months here for humidity and mold/mildew buildup are July, August and September with September being the worst of all especially when the Atlantic hurricane season peaks.
9. You can also protect your windshield wipers with a wrap of sorts and some tennis balls split to put under the wiper arms.
10. Mud-Dobbers will attack your coach beginning in March, so make sure all opening have some stainless steel wool in them. They also love a/c rooftop units and if you don't run the fan motor, they will build their nests on the blades.
11. No worries about any salt air in central Fl unless you are within a few hundred yards of the ocean. No problems with any of our vehicle rusting out and we are within three miles of the beach. Vehicles from the North are much more prone due to the salted roadways. That's one thing we don't have to worry about.
12. Don't worry too much as one year won't destroy anything and you should be in good shape when you are ready to leave.

Probably a few more things that I have missed but do on autopilot after living here for over 60 years. Good luck.

One year is not a big deal and I would not start the engine unless I were to drive it.
Setting with just an idle is not good for the valves they tend to carbon up.

The gen set does need to be run from time to time and always under a load.

Tires..90% of RV tires dry rot long before they wear out and being parked for a year is not a death certificate even parked on the grass.

IMHO Driving the RV for minimum 30 miles once every other month with the genset running is the best thing you can do for your RV and covering and uncovering is a major job.

Using shrink wrap with Damp-Rid keeps the moisture out of the unit. Even in the winter time I use Damp-Rid in my boat when shrink wrapped. So,,if you have never used shrink wrap before you might want to do some research before telling someone not to try something that could protect a persons RV. A good shrink wrap job also has vents built into the plastic.

I leave a 5'ver down in Texas over the summer, covered storage is the only way to go. The rigs that are left to fend for themselves age three times as fast.

Be very careful on the advice you get from this forum. You're in Florida with high humid temps and salt air, most on this forum do not work under those constraints.

Shrink wrapping something in Florida I would think would be the kiss of death. When I was down in Florida I was taught to run the engine to temp once a month and shift thru the gears. Those that did not do that had seals go and leaks. An old neighbor had horror stories galore. Yet when I would leave my MH sit all winter in Northern MN it would start right up with no leaks or problems.

Your best bet is to ask local and not only the net. Go to the local RV shops and tell them what you'll be doing, they'll give you good advice for your area. Also pay attention to the forum members that are from your area, they will know a lot more then someone from the north when it comes to storing a rig in your conditions.

bobatmsu....

I'm with Bob R. We keep ours inside a metal storage facility. It may seem a little expensive but you are going to save in the long run. And like Bob R said..... going to be better on your coach and you.

Two things I do. 1. Put something down under your tires that will not absorb water. Most issues of dry rot comes from the ground up and some will argue that. 2. Mice

p.s.

I agree that a cover is important. Shrink wrap is a neat idea.

Also, does the storage facility cut the grass. This will help keep ants out. Also try to push some steel wool into any holes (including compartments), which mice may get into.

Park the rv on wood to keep the tires off the mud/grass. You can also have someone shrinkwrap it like I do my boat. It will protect it completely. You can have the person applying the shrinkwrap to add a door to so you can gain access. Just a thought.