Suburban Furnace Problems
So my dad gave me his old rv that he just replaced the main board in the furnace its a Suburban model NT34 S and it seems to run fine about 3 time, then it goes to ignite the 4th time and will not ign...
Forum Discussion
First: YOu said it sparks but no flame on the 4th try... Ok, that suggests a problem, in fact two of 'em here is how to test
you need one of three things
A Multi-Meter set to VOLTS mode
A small test light (You can make one from a wedge type dash indicator lamp from auto-parts-are-us)
or an LED power indicator (i make these soemtimes but Well, that's really a toy)
They all work
(If using a LED you get a 2-wire 3-color (RED/Green/Yellow) LED and the proper resistor for 15 volts.. Wire them in series and insulate the common wire)
One lead of your test device goes to one terminal on the SOLENOID, the other, the other.
Now, when the thing lights the first, second, and 3rd time, The Test device should indicate battery voltage or dang close to it.. Every time,, A common table knife (one that responds to a refrigerator magnet) held "Flat" to the solenoid may tend to "Stick".
The 4th time, I'm guessing the knife won't stick,, The light/meter may or may not indicate power
IF it says NO POWER: control board issue, even a new one can fail, I recommend DINOSAUR BOARDS as a replacement I ordered mine from American RV in California (NOTE several other states have companies with that name, They are different companies,,, One just replaced my A/C here in Georgia, anoter (in MIchigan) does my routine engine service (oil changes).
IF the light lights or the meter deflects and the knife does not find the coil attractive... Then the solenoid is the problem, replace the COIL.
If the light lights and the knife is attracted, the valve itself may be the cluprit.
you need one of three things
A Multi-Meter set to VOLTS mode
A small test light (You can make one from a wedge type dash indicator lamp from auto-parts-are-us)
or an LED power indicator (i make these soemtimes but Well, that's really a toy)
They all work
(If using a LED you get a 2-wire 3-color (RED/Green/Yellow) LED and the proper resistor for 15 volts.. Wire them in series and insulate the common wire)
One lead of your test device goes to one terminal on the SOLENOID, the other, the other.
Now, when the thing lights the first, second, and 3rd time, The Test device should indicate battery voltage or dang close to it.. Every time,, A common table knife (one that responds to a refrigerator magnet) held "Flat" to the solenoid may tend to "Stick".
The 4th time, I'm guessing the knife won't stick,, The light/meter may or may not indicate power
IF it says NO POWER: control board issue, even a new one can fail, I recommend DINOSAUR BOARDS as a replacement I ordered mine from American RV in California (NOTE several other states have companies with that name, They are different companies,,, One just replaced my A/C here in Georgia, anoter (in MIchigan) does my routine engine service (oil changes).
IF the light lights or the meter deflects and the knife does not find the coil attractive... Then the solenoid is the problem, replace the COIL.
If the light lights and the knife is attracted, the valve itself may be the cluprit.
