I could have sworn I checked our receiver hitch and it was a 10k lbs hitch before we bought it.... guess I am losing it with my age. Just realized the hitch we have is 5k lbs. What is involved in swapping it out for a 10k lbs hitch ??Reason we went with a diesel pusher was to be able to tow a trailer with a Jeep on it. While it won't be 10k lbs it will probably be over 5k lbs._

What is the towing capacity listed by the Mfg.? If only 5K then you have the correct hitch, if it is 10K you should change the hitch. The hitch receiver does not determine towing capacity, the Mfg. does based on the chassis, etc.

Some DP chassis are actually limited by the rear engine sub-frame. I can't imagine it being a problem on a stright-frame DP (do they still make those?) but as mentioned, check with the manufacturer.

Hitch ratings are determined by many things.....engine size, transmission, brakes, cooling system, frame and tongue weight. Check what the manufacturer actually calls for as stated above. Worse case scenario, a lightweight aluminum trailer and the Jeep may come pretty close to the 5K mark (keep Jeep light, empty fuel tank until you reach your destination, and remove any quick disconnect stuff like fuel cans, tires, off road gear, etc.)

I'm going round and round with this as well. Brochure on motorhome lists GVWR and GCWR about 8000 lbs difference which indicates could tow up to 8000lbs 4 down, but the brochure also notes a class III hitch which is 5000 lbs unless one uses a weight distribution system. I hope the hitch can be upgraded a bit so as to tow at least a 5200 lb Toad, 4 down.

There is a big difference in the stress put on a hitch towing 4 down and with a trailer. FighterP you do not need to do anything as you are only putting 25lbs of tongue weight on the hitch so you can use the rating for WeightDistb.OP, you cannot just swayp hitches. What is the difference in you Combined weight rating (GCWR) and the GVWR? If like FighterP it's 7-8K then a welding shop may be able to add more supports/bracing to your current hitch to make it a WD. Instead of the hitch looking like a 1- (single cross support with - being the receiver) by adding another cross support it looks more like a H- and is now capable of being a WD hitch. Need to find a welding shop in a farming area (shade tree) that will be willing to work on it IF you have enough difference in your two weights.

swap 5k lbs hitch to a 10k lbs hitch | Good Sam Community

24 Replies

fighterpilota
Explorer
May 14, 2013
I'm going round and round with this as well. Brochure on motorhome lists GVWR and GCWR about 8000 lbs difference which indicates could tow up to 8000lbs 4 down, but the brochure also notes a class III hitch which is 5000 lbs unless one uses a weight distribution system. I hope the hitch can be upgraded a bit so as to tow at least a 5200 lb Toad, 4 down.
DSDP_Don
Explorer
May 14, 2013
Hitch ratings are determined by many things.....engine size, transmission, brakes, cooling system, frame and tongue weight.

Check what the manufacturer actually calls for as stated above. Worse case scenario, a lightweight aluminum trailer and the Jeep may come pretty close to the 5K mark (keep Jeep light, empty fuel tank until you reach your destination, and remove any quick disconnect stuff like fuel cans, tires, off road gear, etc.)
carringb
Explorer
May 14, 2013
Some DP chassis are actually limited by the rear engine sub-frame. I can't imagine it being a problem on a stright-frame DP (do they still make those?) but as mentioned, check with the manufacturer.
Nomadac
Explorer
May 14, 2013
What is the towing capacity listed by the Mfg.? If only 5K then you have the correct hitch, if it is 10K you should change the hitch. The hitch receiver does not determine towing capacity, the Mfg. does based on the chassis, etc.

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swap 5k lbs hitch to a 10k lbs hitch

24 Replies

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