Switching from Synthenic to Dyno Oil?
I have a Workhorse Chasis with the Chev 8.1 engine. It has a 22000 miles. The previous owner has been using Synthenic oil. I've been thinking of switching to Dyno......what are the pros and cons o...
Forum Discussion
Good point Travelon. I moved to synthetic in our 454 when we got it with 92,000 miles on it because the price difference gap between dino and the WM full synthetic had closed so much by 2007. For an engine that sets most of the time my research (reading) indicates synthetic should give better protection on start up if using something like 5W-40 Rotella like we current use. It is actually approaching 0W-xx that gives the edge I read.
Almost loss the 5.3L GM engine in the SUV due to a sticking oil pump relief by-pass valve when using dino around the 130K mile mark. With Sea Foam in the new dino oil change for 160 miles it stopped hanging when hot then I replaced with Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-40 for one change. After about 100 miles with it (no Sea Foam) the needle quite flickering at higher RPM's like when driving 70-75 MPH with OD locked out. We now have Mobil 1 5W-30 which is the weight per GM manual.
Not saying the dino was the cause. The prior change of dino was done when GM dash said change which was 7500 miles because I was not driving the SUV at the time. We normally changed it about 5000 miles in the past. We bought it with 102K miles and know they had it changed at the dealership but do not know what they use. It is my take synthetic motor oil is more high detergent but it may not be.
What triggered the sticking pressure relief valve was I took it to get the oil changed because I was stressed it went to 7500 miles and on the way home I did some WOT (wide open throttle take offs letting it shift per the GM programmed shift points. The wife will not do that. I think a WOT take off is required from time to time to keep full range of motion of all moving parts. If one does not do it for years then someone does valves of all kind can start to stick because they move into areas that have a build up on the metal parts.
The 454 in the MH gets WOT starts especially on interstate ramps, etc and when doing exercise runs but only when temp is up to about 200 on the dash. The upshifts come at 4000 RPM like clock work so it is good for the transmission check too.
If our 454 does not run smooth to the 4000 number or the shifting is delayed I know I have a bad plug wire, dirty fuel filter, etc hence why it is important to do WOT take off before doing a cross country that will take one across the Rockies. :)
Key I think for engine oil and ATF is that you never run it when it gets dirty. Synthetics are great but if it gets dirty you will still get a lot of wear on parts. I have found just changing the oil filter and topping off can clear up dirty looking motor oil. On the transmissions we do the buck flushes because that removes about 97% of the old ATF because the old does not get to return to the transmission but goes in a 5 gallon bucket (hence it is called a bucket flush). We have an add on cooler so pulling the line and dumping the return line into the bucket is a stand up job that takes a minute.
I think dino oil changed at 3000 for normal wear is as good as changing at 7500+ when using synthetic in gas engines. Thin synthetic on start up is the best part about synthetic from my understanding.
Almost loss the 5.3L GM engine in the SUV due to a sticking oil pump relief by-pass valve when using dino around the 130K mile mark. With Sea Foam in the new dino oil change for 160 miles it stopped hanging when hot then I replaced with Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-40 for one change. After about 100 miles with it (no Sea Foam) the needle quite flickering at higher RPM's like when driving 70-75 MPH with OD locked out. We now have Mobil 1 5W-30 which is the weight per GM manual.
Not saying the dino was the cause. The prior change of dino was done when GM dash said change which was 7500 miles because I was not driving the SUV at the time. We normally changed it about 5000 miles in the past. We bought it with 102K miles and know they had it changed at the dealership but do not know what they use. It is my take synthetic motor oil is more high detergent but it may not be.
What triggered the sticking pressure relief valve was I took it to get the oil changed because I was stressed it went to 7500 miles and on the way home I did some WOT (wide open throttle take offs letting it shift per the GM programmed shift points. The wife will not do that. I think a WOT take off is required from time to time to keep full range of motion of all moving parts. If one does not do it for years then someone does valves of all kind can start to stick because they move into areas that have a build up on the metal parts.
The 454 in the MH gets WOT starts especially on interstate ramps, etc and when doing exercise runs but only when temp is up to about 200 on the dash. The upshifts come at 4000 RPM like clock work so it is good for the transmission check too.
If our 454 does not run smooth to the 4000 number or the shifting is delayed I know I have a bad plug wire, dirty fuel filter, etc hence why it is important to do WOT take off before doing a cross country that will take one across the Rockies. :)
Key I think for engine oil and ATF is that you never run it when it gets dirty. Synthetics are great but if it gets dirty you will still get a lot of wear on parts. I have found just changing the oil filter and topping off can clear up dirty looking motor oil. On the transmissions we do the buck flushes because that removes about 97% of the old ATF because the old does not get to return to the transmission but goes in a 5 gallon bucket (hence it is called a bucket flush). We have an add on cooler so pulling the line and dumping the return line into the bucket is a stand up job that takes a minute.
I think dino oil changed at 3000 for normal wear is as good as changing at 7500+ when using synthetic in gas engines. Thin synthetic on start up is the best part about synthetic from my understanding.
