The Norcold is junk so I'm going to buy a domestic style refrigerator. I plan on plugging it onto the outlet where the Norcold was plugged in at. The concern I have is my RV is 30 amps. I'm worried that when the A/C is on and the refrigerator kicks on, that it might kick the main. Should I just get a inverter to run the new refrigerator on? I really don't want to because I have a generator and could always just start it every few hours to run the frige. Ideas? Advice?I.m thinking this one: http://www.pcrichard.com/catalog/catalog-product.jsp?prodId=RA7316PST&cm_mmc=pla-_-Refrigerators-_-Avanti-_-RA7316PST&utm_medium=cse&utm_source=GoogleBase&KPID=RA7316PST&kpid=RA7316PST&gclid=Cj0KEQjwz6KtBRDwgq-LsKjMk9kBEiQAuaxWUqOT3adTCn2VlLndoCg3JIForAUi4Y6GLrEhMx672N4aAphj8P8HAQ

I strongly suggest an inverter. A residential refrighator uses less power than you may think. An inverter will provide plenty of power . You can get a 1000 watt sinewave inverter that has an internal transfer switch so it automatically passes through shore or generator power if available. Just make sure it is a sinewave inverter rather than modified sinewave.

household refer and inverter2009 Household refer Class A 2009residential fridge- boondocking 09Residential refer Class A 2010Norcold w resi, class a 2014No, those are not women's soccer links!

2oldman wrote:household refer and inverter2009 Household refer Class A 2009residential fridge- boondocking 09Residential refer Class A 2010Norcold w resi, class a 2014No, those are not women's soccer links!Thanks. You gave me a bunch of stuff to read! Looks like a task for tonight ;)

My 21 ft.³ refrigerator drawls one amp running two amps on start up, not going to kick your AC out.

my residential will be 5yrs old mid-augustdraws about 95~100w when running, that less than 1amp at 120vthe fridge start surge, compressor start is about 900w for a few millisecondsRunning it uses 1/3 the power of your Norcold on 120v which is 300+ wattsit is NOT going to trip your breakerif you dry camp, or if you drive all day to get to your destinationthen yes, get an inverter to power the fridge, and keep food cold

Switching Refrigerator to domestic style | Good Sam Community

msturtz
Explorer
Jul 17, 2015
I strongly suggest an inverter. A residential refrighator uses less power than you may think. An inverter will provide plenty of power . You can get a 1000 watt sinewave inverter that has an internal transfer switch so it automatically passes through shore or generator power if available. Just make sure it is a sinewave inverter rather than modified sinewave.
2oldman
Explorer II
Jul 17, 2015
household refer and inverter2009
Household refer Class A 2009
residential fridge- boondocking 09
Residential refer Class A 2010
Norcold w resi, class a 2014

No, those are not women's soccer links!
TNGW1500SE
Explorer
Jul 17, 2015
2oldman wrote:
household refer and inverter2009
Household refer Class A 2009
residential fridge- boondocking 09
Residential refer Class A 2010
Norcold w resi, class a 2014

No, those are not women's soccer links!

Thanks. You gave me a bunch of stuff to read! Looks like a task for tonight ;)
Ivylog
Explorer III
Jul 17, 2015
My 21 ft.³ refrigerator drawls one amp running two amps on start up, not going to kick your AC out.
MrWizard
Moderator
Jul 17, 2015
my residential will be 5yrs old mid-august
draws about 95~100w when running, that less than 1amp at 120v
the fridge start surge, compressor start is about 900w for a few milliseconds

Running it uses 1/3 the power of your Norcold on 120v which is 300+ watts
it is NOT going to trip your breaker

if you dry camp, or if you drive all day to get to your destination
then yes, get an inverter to power the fridge, and keep food cold
RayChez
Explorer
Jul 17, 2015
If you are hooked up to shore power all the time, I would not even worry about an inverter. Since you have the small Norcold refrigerator you should be able to find one to fit at any store that sells refrigerators. Try Costco, or Home Depot. The hard part is finding one that fits the hole. You do not want to be modifying too much unless you are a good cabinet man.

If you do travel a lot from campground to campground THEN you will need a good inverter, six six volt batteries to keep the frig running while traveling from point A to point B.
TNGW1500SE
Explorer
Jul 18, 2015
Thanks. Kicking the breaker was my only real concern. I can always add an inverter if I find that I need one "down the road".
TNGW1500SE
Explorer
Jul 19, 2015
Came home and took the Norcold out. There was wallpaper behind the old Norcold that had came off the wall and was falling down on the flue. Glad it's gone. The new one is on order from home depot and it's a 12 cubic foot one. Anybody need any parts from my Norcold N611?
Bill_Satellite
Explorer II
Jul 19, 2015
The RR will draw very little (3amp max) and should have no effect on your breaker capacity or total amps. 12cf is pretty small. You can likely get a much bigger fridge to fit in that space.
ArchHoagland
Explorer
Jul 19, 2015
TNGW1500SE wrote:
Came home and took the Norcold out. There was wallpaper behind the old Norcold that had came off the wall and was falling down on the flue. Glad it's gone. The new one is on order from home depot and it's a 12 cubic foot one. Anybody need any parts from my Norcold N611?

I wonder if the wallpaper was creating cooling problems with your Norcold.