Thermo Cube Thermostatically Controlled Outlet

I don't know if the ThermoCube has changed any over the years, but I have one controlling a bank of four 15 watt bulbs that keep the pressure tank for our cottage water supply from freezing. As best I can recall, it's at least 10 years old and still working. We have a remote reading thermometer in the insulated "dog house" with the tank for monitoring.

This is a great Thread.. Yes, I use that very product, it controls the lights that keep my water hose warm when it gets too cold.

I also use the Frost King one that someone else pictured, it controls the lights that are under my Fresh water tank and the 100 watt lamp in the other end of the wet bay... (It is inside the bay where as the Thermo-Cube is outside so it comes on first)

Both work very well.

Kaz wrote:
I purchased one of the Frost King units (haven't tried it yet), but it doesn't look like I should get my hopes up there either.

For the heat source, I use one of those little 200-watt forced air heaters, like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XDTWN2/.

If the Frost King unit fails, I guess I'll just buy a project box and a regular thermostat and wire it to a 120-volt relay. Solving this problem shouldn't be this hard.

Skip

Regular wall thermostats generally don't go below about 45°F, and have a fairly small spread in temp, one to two degrees. Honeywell makes a special "garage" thermostat that goes down to 35°F, but its a piece of junk.

As already noted, and I had not thought about it, that anything digital either has to have a back up battery in it or loss of power will cause the unit to go back to defaults.

Good luck, I did not realize how un-reliable the cube thermostats were.

Charles

Kaz wrote:

Busskipper wrote:
Anyone Use This Cold Weather Thermo Cube Thermostatically Controlled Outlet - On at 35-Degrees/Off at 45-Degrees.

I keep a couple of 150 watt Halogens in the Coach during the winter, use them to keep the temp around 40, and the only problem is they are always on, even when it's warm out - found these on Amazon - just checking to see if anyone has used them?

If you have do they work? Would be nice to turn off the electric on the warm days.

What do you think?

:@:@:@

I've tried them a couple times and, as the comments above and the online reviews would suggest, I have not found them to be very reliable. I went by the coach a couple days ago (temperatures in the mid-20's) and the outlet had failed and the wet bay was cold as a well digger's ... well, you know.

I purchased one of the Frost King units (haven't tried it yet), but it doesn't look like I should get my hopes up there either.

For the heat source, I use one of those little 200-watt forced air heaters, like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XDTWN2/.

If the Frost King unit fails, I guess I'll just buy a project box and a regular thermostat and wire it to a 120-volt relay. Solving this problem shouldn't be this hard.

Skip

Another option


Option Two

But with the goal to just not have to turn on and off the light I think the small heater (200 watts) should fit the bill.

For $15 I think I'll give it a try.

Thanks,

Busskipper wrote:
Anyone Use This Cold Weather Thermo Cube Thermostatically Controlled Outlet - On at 35-Degrees/Off at 45-Degrees.

I keep a couple of 150 watt Halogens in the Coach during the winter, use them to keep the temp around 40, and the only problem is they are always on, even when it's warm out - found these on Amazon - just checking to see if anyone has used them?

If you have do they work? Would be nice to turn off the electric on the warm days.

What do you think?

:@:@:@

I've tried them a couple times and, as the comments above and the online reviews would suggest, I have not found them to be very reliable. I went by the coach a couple days ago (temperatures in the mid-20's) and the outlet had failed and the wet bay was cold as a well digger's ... well, you know.

I purchased one of the Frost King units (haven't tried it yet), but it doesn't look like I should get my hopes up there either.

For the heat source, I use one of those little 200-watt forced air heaters, like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XDTWN2/.

If the Frost King unit fails, I guess I'll just buy a project box and a regular thermostat and wire it to a 120-volt relay. Solving this problem shouldn't be this hard.

Skip

Hi Charles,

The problem with digital units is that when power is removed and then returned they default to OFF.

CharlesinGA wrote:
Looking at Amazon, the TC, Frost King, and Easy Heat brands of similar thermostatic switches do not have good reviews if you read thru them. I would spring for a more expensive digital, settable unit such as the Inkbird or possibly the Anself.

Charles

Looking at Amazon, the TC, Frost King, and Easy Heat brands of similar thermostatic switches do not have good reviews if you read thru them. I would spring for a more expensive digital, settable unit such as the Inkbird or possibly the Anself.

Charles

I use a 110 volt thermostat in my garage and set it a 45. They're made to handle more power.

I've used the thermal cube for about 3 years with good results. I use it with a heated floor mat hung vertically in my wet bay.

Heated Floor Mat Link

I'm not sure that I would use a thermal cube with high wattage heaters.

I place one thermostatically controlled fan-forced ceramic heater in the bathroom on a 12x12 ceramic tile, and another in the kitchen on the open over door. They are both set to come on at about 35-40 degrees. I also have the propane furnace set to come on at 35 degrees in case of a power outage.

Thermo cube seems to not be too reliable. I have one that works well and one that doesn't seem to work at all.