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RonR2440's avatar
RonR2440
Explorer
Jun 17, 2018

Tire pressure

I drive a 32' Itasca Cambria. I keep the tire pressure at 80 psi and the air bladder bags at 35 psi. When we are driving the RV seems to feel every asphalt repair, expansion joints, road damage, etc. Makes for a really rough ride. What do people typically keep their tire pressure at. I realize for the best results you can weigh the vehicle and look at tire charts. I am thinking of reducing tire pressure to 75 psi. I am concerned about tire overheating if I reduce the pressure too much. Thanks ahead of time.
  • I contacted Continental (the manufacturer of my OE tires) and they said to inflate per the placard in the door jam. They do not publish an inflation chart.
  • RonR2440 wrote:
    When we are driving the RV seems to feel every asphalt repair, expansion joints, road damage, etc. Makes for a really rough ride.


    You're having what we had with our Itasca - only we probably had it worse, as we have only a 24 foot Itasca but on the E450 chassis instead of the usual E350 chassis used for small motorhomes. I run tire pressures of about 80 lbs. in the rear and 65 lbs in the front even though I don't need pressures this high for our weight. I run these too-high pressures to keep tire heat at a minimum by keeping sidewall flexing to a minimum - which is one of the benefits of higher tire pressures because heat ages tires faster. I use Michelin LTX Load Range E Defender tires all around and the pressures I use have not resulted in any excessive tire wear in the center portions of the tire treads..

    Several years ago we changed just the rear shocks of the E450 to Koni FSD (Frequency Selective Damping) shocks. We used to have a shower door latch (the shower is in a rear corner) that never stayed latched after traveling a few miles on today's rouch roads and highways. Since installing those shocks, the latch now NEVER comes unlatched. We've also recently installed a couple of fairly shallow shelves in the rear of the coach and nothing bounces out of them when underway. I'm really scratching my head over those shelves and that shower latch! Those shocks are amazing and have taken away, estimating, at least one-half of the pounding in the rear.

    Koni does sell "regular" shocks however, in addition to their FSD line. If you look into Koni shocks for at least the rear of your Class C, make sure it's Koni's FSD shocks that you check into.

    Here's a link that explains the FSD technology:
    http://www.koni.com/en-US/Cars/Technology/ACTIVE_Technology/
  • Thanks for the review, Ron! Nice to have an unbiased review that I can fully trust.
    I need one like the “expensive truck wheel” one you tossed in order to check the inner and outer duals without special valve stems. I have two $20 ones like that, which I checked with a mechanic friend’s really expensive one and a Slime Digital one. All agree within a psi. I had an old one of my dad’s that had to be thrown away when it got inaccurate.