Forum Discussion

TominTampa's avatar
TominTampa
Explorer
Apr 19, 2014

Toilet Flange Question

Hello All,
I’m replacing the toilet in the Monaco, (and a large chuck of subfloor) and have a question concerning the flange and the mounting surface. Apparently the black water tank’s pipe is slightly tilted to one side, therefore when bolting the flange to my perfectly level surface, the flange contacts one side tight, and the other side has about a 3/16” gap. Using common building shims I can easily shim the high side so that I’ve got a good solid surface to screw into the floor through, but is that going to be a showstopper? Or will the doughnut gasket compensate? Any thoughts? - Tom
  • wa8yxm's avatar
    wa8yxm
    Explorer III
    I am thinking you need to cut the pipe and insert a "Joiner" this is a rubber tube, matching the size of the pipe. with hose clamps.. Used in home construction when you need to, for example, Splice in a new "Y" fitting.

    IT is also how I plan on fixing mine.
  • Well, thanks for the responses folks. I'm going to give this thing a trail run and just watch carefully for leaks. - Tom
  • FWIW, I got myself into trouble like that also and went to the local MacGyver RV guy for advice. His solution was to use a house wax ring gasket. Said he did it once without a problem. I found the thickest one I could and used it. I never had a problem either.

    Don't know exactly why RV's don't use wax rings. I assume it may have something to do with the shaking of the rv.
  • Can you machine down the flange to make it parallel to the floor and still have enough "meat" to allow a good connection?
  • I just finished replacing the toilet to flange gasket (and the ball valve gasket) in my Dometic/Sealand 110 toilet. I don't see why the gasket wouldn't be able to handle a small gap but 3/16 might be excessive. There is about a 3/8" gap before you start tightening the toilet down.