Tow Tower

Most new vehicles do not have a heavy steel frame. This hitch must be attached to the vehicle's unibody, which is basically sheet metal.

Gjac wrote:
This just looks all wrong for most RV's. The higher you lift the front of the vehicle off the ground the more weight you can take of the hitch. So theoretically if the 4000 lb car is completely vertical the hitch would be unloaded. I can't see lifting the front wheels 12-18 in off the ground reducing the tongue by more than half. Secondly I can't imagine the stress put on the attach points on the car.The video does not show the attach points underneath the car or how this is load is spread out. Most unibody cars are are just stamped steel. When I installed my base plate on my tow car the steel was about 1/8 in thick. The dynamic loads from potholes etc are much more than the static loads. May be there is something we are not seeing or understanding from the video, if not maybe as Wolfe said it was designed just for large tag axle MH's.

In the video he said it attached to the underside of the car with 4 shear bolts - I hope it's in the frame. He goes on to say that in a crash they are designed to shear off. Thinking to myself, the forces imposed on this unit with potholes, starting, hard stops etc, could replicate the forces of a crash. Maybe I'm wrong - I am no engineer - but it doesn't seem very safe. And to re-state the obvious point - I think he is dramatically understating the amount of stress on the hitch. He claims his 4k# car only imposes 1600# on the hitch. I don't believe that but if it's true, that can't be max, that has to be on a flat surface resting. And when it's flat on the ground and you start the lifting process, aren't you lifting at least 50% of the vehicle weight - if not more due to the engine - to get it off the ground? Never mind the unit looks to be 100-200# itself. That's almost 2000#. He said it himself, there are really no regulations governing towing consumer cars. So there doesn't have to be any extensive testing. I think the risk, plus cost, plus the various other cheaper and safer alternatives makes this a no-go. But that's my opinion.

This just looks all wrong for most RV's. The higher you lift the front of the vehicle off the ground the more weight you can take of the hitch. So theoretically if the 4000 lb car is completely vertical the hitch would be unloaded. I can't see lifting the front wheels 12-18 in off the ground reducing the tongue by more than half. Secondly I can't imagine the stress put on the attach points on the car.The video does not show the attach points underneath the car or how this is load is spread out. Most unibody cars are are just stamped steel. When I installed my base plate on my tow car the steel was about 1/8 in thick. The dynamic loads from potholes etc are much more than the static loads. May be there is something we are not seeing or understanding from the video, if not maybe as Wolfe said it was designed just for large tag axle MH's.

Probably won't handle all wheel drive cars. Only front wheel drive with free rear wheels would work.

Very much doubt this would be viable except perhaps on tag axle DP's.

Adding the weight of the front of a toad 15' or so behind the rear axle will really load the rear axle and unload the front axle. Handling will be compromised. GAWR in the rear will likely be overloaded.

Here's a video that addresses a lot of questions/concerns. I use that term loosely because after watching the video the guy that built the thing still has great deal of difficulty hooking it up. You have to crawl on the ground under your car to insert a 2" steel bar with considerable length and I am assuming also considerable weight, then the hitch to that bar seems like it requires a little wrestling with. In the very beginning he admits that the biggest constraint is hitch weight capacity, He guesses his 4k# Caddy puts 1500# of tongue weight. He didn't mention what the unit itself weighs so add that to the mix. Of course that's not moving or bouncing etc. He's got it hooked to a Foretravel so my guess is unless you do some serious reinforcement, his target market is the Prevost set. It also renders your hitch useless when not towing as I would guess this is fairly difficult to remove and store somewhere. I don't think I heard price but I would guess more than a dolly - especially when factoring that you still need a base plate and hitch work unless yours is heavy duty enough. If you read the comments, a lot of questions and concerns are addressed there. I like new and creative ideas but personally this looks like an expensive way to solve a problem that has already been solved with a dolly or get a new car and flat tow. If I were a betting man I would say this is developed so people with Foretravels and Prevosts can tow their Cadillacs without having to slum it with a dolly.

On edit: Looks like at 12:23 he starts talking cost - Approx $3-4k total depending on how much work you do yourself. that does not include any work to reinforce your hitch. I bought my first dolly for about $1200 and required no mods whatsoever. Of course if you are spending $1-3MM on a coach a few grand is negligible.

VIDEO

First, I doubt that would work on a standard 5000# tow bar on a class A with a 500# hitch weight. Another thing that bothers me is how close the towed is to the motorhome. Seems like it would limit your turn radius quite a bit.

Here is a little better link that has more pictures and a FAQ section.
To me it would add a structure that hangs under the vehicle on a car that already sits close to the ground.
Tow Tower

Rick Jay wrote:
I think it's interesting that the top photo shows what appears to be a gasser, but the rear (bedroom?) slide is out.


I'm tempted to find out, but I refuse to submit any information where the phone number is require. I'll do email, but I like to keep my phone number to myself.


~Rick

The engine is visible through the side panel just below and to the rear of the slide.

They ask for “A” phone number, your area code plus 555-1212 (there is no “555” exchange anywhere) will work just fine, and a ‘disposable’ email address from any of thousands of providers completes your anonymity.

I think it's an interesting concept. However, they offer no information on their web site.

There is no braking system on the toad?

They want your email AND phone number.

You must submit your information and they will contact you.

That's too many red flags for me, even if I was interested in the product.

If someone contacts the company and receives the information, I hope they post it on the forum.