Just back from a very frustrating and abbreviated trip to the mountains of North Carolina. Yesterday I returned to my 2004 Jayco Granite Ridge Class C. It was very warm inside, so I turned on the AC and took a shower. Shortly after getting out of the shower, the power to the MH went completely out. I checked the usual suspects (power cord, GFCI, pedestal, breakers, etc). I smelled a burnt odor after coming back inside and started looking around.Under the bed is where the converter, breaker panel, transfer switch live. I removed the cover to the transfer switch and found the source of the burnt odor. Three of the wires inside the switch were burned badly (insulation melted) etc.After coming back home since no service was available at that location, I see some information about a recall of Iota ITS-50R transfer switch. Is anyone familiar with how this recall works, what it covers, etc. I will continue to research but any information anyone has about this would be much appreciated. Sorry for the long post.

From the little I could glean:1. IOTA seems to be out of the Transfer Switch Business2. The Switch in questions seems to be 50-amp and with a Class C yours is probably 30-amp3. Replacements seem to be being done by the RV builders not IOTAMaybe somebody else has more on this.

The IOTA recall is for 50 amp transfer switch. Your Jayco probably has a 30 amp transfer switch. I have seen many post on transfer switch failures. Most common is bad/loose connections. Your transfer switch may be OK. But needs new wires to repair burnt ones. If you are not familiar with electrical wiring. Have repairs done by a experienced tech that knows RV wiring repair it.

I plan to call Jayco this morning to see if they have any information on it. Also, the switch can be used for 50 amps, hence the model number ITS-50R. I am not familiar with electrical systems, so I will have it repaired by a pro whether it is covered by a recall or not. Thanks for the responses.

There were some issues with the 30 amp units as well. It happened to my sister-in-law, but her's was an 08 Greyhawk Ron, what I found is not only did the wiring "fry" but also the terminals. They actually broke away from the insulated mounting plate so the whole switch will probably need to be replaced.

My rig doesn't have a transfer switch, and after reading posts like this one, I am glad. Consider wiring the shore cord DIRECTLY to the wire that goes to your breaker box, and wire the cord coming from the generator to a 30amp outlet in an electrical box in the electrical compartment.Whenever you unplug from the pedestal, immediately plug into the outlet in your RV. Simple and foolproof.

Transfer switch on Class C | Good Sam Community

Bobbo
Explorer II
Oct 12, 2013
So you would have an outlet before AND after the transfer switch as a bypass?

If so you would have to use a cord with 2 male plugs? If so then THAT would be the suicide cord.

If not, then I don't understand how you would do it.
Dakzuki
Explorer
Oct 12, 2013
Bobbo wrote:
Dakzuki wrote:
I suppose as a backup plan one could have it both ways and have a 30 amp plug and receptacle wired parallel to the transfer switch as a "manual reversion" backup.

That would require a shore cord that is hooked to the house system after the transfer switch. If you did that, the plug on that cord would be hot anytime the system is hot. That is called a suicide cord.

Bad explanation on my part. It would actually jumper around the xfer switch if used. No hot wires exposed....only sockets.
Bobbo
Explorer II
Oct 11, 2013
Dakzuki wrote:
I suppose as a backup plan one could have it both ways and have a 30 amp plug and receptacle wired parallel to the transfer switch as a "manual reversion" backup.

That would require a shore cord that is hooked to the house system after the transfer switch. If you did that, the plug on that cord would be hot anytime the system is hot. That is called a suicide cord.
Dakzuki
Explorer
Oct 11, 2013
Bobbo wrote:
Dakzuki wrote:
Bobbo wrote:
My rig doesn't have a transfer switch, and after reading posts like this one, I am glad. Consider wiring the shore cord DIRECTLY to the wire that goes to your breaker box, and wire the cord coming from the generator to a 30amp outlet in an electrical box in the electrical compartment.

Whenever you unplug from the pedestal, immediately plug into the outlet in your RV. Simple and foolproof.

One brand of transfer switches has an issue so give up on them? It's kinda like giving up on cars because Yugos were lousy.

No.

You occasionally see posts like this about all of the brands. I, personally, just consider them an unnecessary complication. Just my opinion, that everyone is entitled to. :B

I installed a PD transfer switch in mine to support winter dry camping up here in the gloomy Pacific Northwet. I run a small Honda generator for extended periods to keep the batteries happy. It is much quieter than the on board generator but of course it doesn't have the ability to run things like the oven. When the high current is needed, we fire up the big unit and the power is switched over without anybody having to go out in the weather. So far no issues.

I suppose as a backup plan one could have it both ways and have a 30 amp plug and receptacle wired parallel to the transfer switch as a "manual reversion" backup.
mikebo
Explorer
Oct 11, 2013
Contact Jayco directly, I had a Jayco Melbourne with the same problem. It was out of warranty and they sent me a replacement. This was a little over a year ago. It was the 30 amp Iota transfer switch.
Bobbo
Explorer II
Oct 10, 2013
Dakzuki wrote:
Bobbo wrote:
My rig doesn't have a transfer switch, and after reading posts like this one, I am glad. Consider wiring the shore cord DIRECTLY to the wire that goes to your breaker box, and wire the cord coming from the generator to a 30amp outlet in an electrical box in the electrical compartment.

Whenever you unplug from the pedestal, immediately plug into the outlet in your RV. Simple and foolproof.

One brand of transfer switches has an issue so give up on them? It's kinda like giving up on cars because Yugos were lousy.

No.

You occasionally see posts like this about all of the brands. I, personally, just consider them an unnecessary complication. Just my opinion, that everyone is entitled to. :B
ronfisherman
Moderator
Oct 10, 2013
GrumpyandGrandma wrote:

Ron, what I found is not only did the wiring "fry" but also the terminals. They actually broke away from the insulated mounting plate so the whole switch will probably need to be replaced.

Not sure if I should be changing my IOTA's out. I have a 50 amp for the generator and 30 amp for the inverter. So far no problems. I always recommend that owners check these connections. Also check circuit breaker panels.
Dakzuki
Explorer
Oct 10, 2013
Bobbo wrote:
My rig doesn't have a transfer switch, and after reading posts like this one, I am glad. Consider wiring the shore cord DIRECTLY to the wire that goes to your breaker box, and wire the cord coming from the generator to a 30amp outlet in an electrical box in the electrical compartment.

Whenever you unplug from the pedestal, immediately plug into the outlet in your RV. Simple and foolproof.

One brand of transfer switches has an issue so give up on them? It's kinda like giving up on cars because Yugos were lousy.
Bobbo
Explorer II
Oct 10, 2013
My rig doesn't have a transfer switch, and after reading posts like this one, I am glad. Consider wiring the shore cord DIRECTLY to the wire that goes to your breaker box, and wire the cord coming from the generator to a 30amp outlet in an electrical box in the electrical compartment.

Whenever you unplug from the pedestal, immediately plug into the outlet in your RV. Simple and foolproof.
GrumpyandGrandm
Explorer
Oct 10, 2013
There were some issues with the 30 amp units as well. It happened to my sister-in-law, but her's was an 08 Greyhawk

Ron, what I found is not only did the wiring "fry" but also the terminals. They actually broke away from the insulated mounting plate so the whole switch will probably need to be replaced.

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