Travelling to Florida by tow truck
Hello. I have a 1996 Monaco Dynasty. I left Ontario on Saturday November 5th and made it to Ohio where I bedded down for the night at a KOA. Left Sunday morning and had just passed the Ohio Kentu...
Forum Discussion
Let's look at this statement: " The alternator is reading 13.8 amps. The battery line from battery isolator to wet cell battery is at 13. 8 amps. The battery line from battery isolator to 12V batteries are reading 12.1."
You don't say whether you have a diode-based battery isolator or relay/solenoid-based isolator. If relay/solenoid-based isolator readings on alternator and battery side of the isolator will/should be the same. If diode-based isolator, the battery side will read about .7 VDC lower than the alternator side. And the diode-based isolator requires a "sense wire" to the chassis battery side of the isolator to allow the alternator to "make" an extra .7 VDC that is lost in the isolator.
Given that you say that same 13.8 at alternator and at chassis battery I ASSUME you have a relay/solenoid-based isolator. If this is true, then the isolator is not functioning, as the house bank (assuming you don't have a bad battery) should be receiving the same voltage, not 12.1 which indicates a deeply discharged house bank.
Agree with above-- no need for a higher-amp alternator. The factory advice is sage if you expect the alternator to not only keep up with normal battery needs, but to charge deeply discharged large house bank as well. Were it me, I would NOT spend $$ on this.
I would also suggest getting with Steve at King Control to do some troubleshooting to verify that the King Control throttle (assume you have a King Control throttle as well as King Control cruise) is working properly.
You don't say whether you have a diode-based battery isolator or relay/solenoid-based isolator. If relay/solenoid-based isolator readings on alternator and battery side of the isolator will/should be the same. If diode-based isolator, the battery side will read about .7 VDC lower than the alternator side. And the diode-based isolator requires a "sense wire" to the chassis battery side of the isolator to allow the alternator to "make" an extra .7 VDC that is lost in the isolator.
Given that you say that same 13.8 at alternator and at chassis battery I ASSUME you have a relay/solenoid-based isolator. If this is true, then the isolator is not functioning, as the house bank (assuming you don't have a bad battery) should be receiving the same voltage, not 12.1 which indicates a deeply discharged house bank.
Agree with above-- no need for a higher-amp alternator. The factory advice is sage if you expect the alternator to not only keep up with normal battery needs, but to charge deeply discharged large house bank as well. Were it me, I would NOT spend $$ on this.
I would also suggest getting with Steve at King Control to do some troubleshooting to verify that the King Control throttle (assume you have a King Control throttle as well as King Control cruise) is working properly.
