we have a 2007 class C ford E450 chassis. I decided i wanted to flush the brake fluid out as it was getting dirty looking. I did it as i would any of my cars- clear hose on the bleeder screw leading to a bottle of brake fluid- put lots of fluid thru each wheel and always kept the reservoir as full as possible. now the fluid looks like new AND the brake pedal is nice and hard with the eng off. while running the pedal goes to the floor and the hydroboost sounds different ( unless it's my imagination). Any advice? bleed it again? do something with the hydroboost?? Help. Pat

start at the farthest wheel cylinder and end up at the closest to the master cylinder. JMHO

My mech flushed all the old fluid, inspected the rear and front pads and shoes and readjusted the brakes for 100.00. for that amt. it was worth it to me to have a professional do mine...brakes is something a nonpro. should fool with..Btw my brakes are good as new

Turbo Diesel Dude wrote:start at the farthest wheel cylinder and end up at the closest to the master cylinder. JMHOso you think it's just a matter of bleeding them better? nothing to do with the hydroboost system? I had read something about the hydroboost system storing some fluid under pressure in case you lost boost?? I don't know if this has anything to do with it or not. I bought a power bleeder that i plan to try this weekend.

Boy Pat, that is a tough call. I am not familiar with hydro-boost. I assume you made sure there is enough fluid in the boost reservoir. I would try bleeding again, but I would first suck out all the fluid from the master cylinder reservoir. While sucking, move the hose around the bottom-most of the reservoir to suck out all dirt and impurities. I don't recall if you can, but if possible, wipe out the reservoir with a clean shop towel once empty. Then refill and re-bleed.As stated by Turbo Diesel Dude, always bleed from the farthest wheel first which is right-rear, then left-rear, then right-front, then left-front.I commend you and encourage you to do your own brake work. No auto shop will be as careful and determined as you to get your brakes just right. Of coarse, be sure you are doing it right to begin with. We are here to help in any way we can.

ron.dittmer wrote:I would try bleeding again, but I would first suck out all the fluid from the master cylinder reservoir. While sucking, move the hose around the bottom-most of the reservoir to suck out all dirt and impurities. I don't recall if you can, but if possible, wipe out the reservoir with a clean shop towel once empty. Then refill and re-bleed.I commend you and encourage you to do your own brake work. No auto shop will be as careful and determined as you to get your brakes just right. Of coarse, be sure you are doing it right to begin with. We are here to help in any way we can. Yeah the reservoir is soooo clean now that you have to open the top to see the fluid....i'm kinda of a nut for clean brake fluid....i take some of my cars to open track days where we race the pee out of them....if i don't have proof that my brake fluid was completely swapped out in the last two months, i don't go out on track! I think most people dont pay much attention to brake fluid....but it gets very contaminated....

Trouble bleeding brakes | Good Sam Community

Stefonius
Explorer
May 04, 2014
I think that cycling the ABS pump may have done the trick for you. Congrats!
hotrodln
Explorer
May 04, 2014
I'll have to give that a try. i like to change the PS fluid on my cars. why not on the camper!
j-d
Explorer II
May 03, 2014
Odd but true. What you're describing is about what happened to me. Low pedal after bleeding but OK once I drove it. Really can't explain it. I had an ABS warning light on the dash when I started it after bleeding the brakes without the booster. I think, though, that I had turned the key to RUN during my axle swap job, and had the two front sensors unplugged at that point. So I don't think the ABS light and the low pedal were ever related.

HEY, in case you didn't see it on another thread, we should be changing the Power Steering fluid as well as the Brake Fluid. An OP with a Chevy P30, same booster concept, had a sticking brake pedal and it turned out to be gunk in the power steering fluid. Changed/flushed the steering and was back to OK. We've had a case on the Class C forum of power steering fluid getting into the master cylinder at the booster, so again, good idea to refresh the fluid on both sides.
hotrodln
Explorer
May 03, 2014
UPDATE: so i gave up this week and invited my local mechanic by and told him to bring his best scanner...so he stopped by yesterday and gave it a whirl....his scanner wouldn't bleed the brakes....it made the abs unit make some minor noise, but that's it....pedal still to the floor ( almost). so i figured i would take the RV out of the barn and go find a nice muddy field that i could " exercise the ABS"...well i took it off the jackstands, put it in reverse and the brake pedal was NICE AND HIGH! WTF! so feeling brave i drove it around a bit and now all is well. no funny noises from the hydroboost, good firm brake pedal.....so i'll need to think about this one for awhile to find the secret lesson to be learned....
j-d
Explorer II
Apr 29, 2014
I'll be interested to hear if it calls for intervention in the ABS. It's possible that we have different ABS between our 2002 chassis and your 2007. I believe Ford made major ABS chances going into 2008. Our 2002 is a 4-wheel system but it still has the VSS on the differential housing. I believe 2008 deleted that VSS.
I'd say try this zero-cost attempt:
1. Fill Master Cylinder and Install Cap
2. Remove Brake Bleeders one at a time. Don't just Wire Brush, use little drill bits and be sure the lengthwise and crosswise holes are clear. Apply Teflon Tape. Don't reinstall Bleeder yet.
3. Remove Master Cylinder Cap and let the fluid run out of the Caliper.
4. Reinstall and tighten Bleeder
5. Refill Master Cylinder and Install Cap
6. Repeat for Next Wheel(s)
7. Check Pedal.
8. Bleed all 4 wheels using normal procedure

If this doesn't change something I don't know what else to do. And I don't know why I didn't get stuck like you seem to be, other than I had new calipers with new bleeders so they had no chance to be plugged.

Oh, Long Shot - I have all New or Recent Brake Hoses (the flex ones from hard lines to each caliper). It's not uncommon for hoses to collapse internally but usually that causes the brakes to drag, not to fail to apply. But I've seen that on a school bus. A steel bracket that held the hoses (dual cylinder drum system, true nightmare!) away from the tire rusted and pinched the hoses shut. Brake would not apply.
Fishbreath
Explorer II
Apr 29, 2014
Did you, by chance, try bleeding them with the engine running?
It might help get the air out of the ABS module.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Bill
pauldub
Explorer
Apr 29, 2014
You can use a phone or tablet for a scan tool if you buy a blue tooth dongle to plug into the obd port. Only costs about $20 but it won't cycle the ABS for you.
hotrodln
Explorer
Apr 29, 2014
after doing more research on the internet AND talking to my local mechanic i'm pretty sure i need to buy a scan tool for about 300 bucks. it's still probably cheaper than getting my unit towed to a shop...AND i'll have a cool new tool that i can use to amaze my friends!
hotrodln
Explorer
Apr 28, 2014
Stefonius wrote:
I'm still wondering if you need to have the ABS pump cycled. Do you know anyone with a Ford or AutoEnginuity scan tool?
I have a shop that inspects it once a year about 1 mile from my house. if the brakes work at all i might just drive it there and let them check it out. I've got no error messages on the dash....
Stefonius
Explorer
Apr 28, 2014
I'm still wondering if you need to have the ABS pump cycled. Do you know anyone with a Ford or AutoEnginuity scan tool?

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