Yes my fan does roar when I start the engine. I can test the thermostat when I have it apart next time. I do all my own mechanic work so far. I can throw a lot of parts at a problem for $100.00 per hour that a mechanic would charge. By the time I take the radiator out and have the top tank taken off to check for blockages I might as well just replace the radiator for $200.00. Just drove 730 miles yesterday across the Nevada desert and was able to manage the cooling problem by keeping it under 60mph and not over about 1/3 throttle on long climbs. I always drive under 60mph anyway for gas savings. I won't be able to take it apart again until after Christmas because of time constraints. It doesn't run hot in the fall anyways. Trying to amass ideas now so I can tackle it after my busy season. Thanks again for the ideas, Jeff.
NTORACN wrote:
scroller95969 wrote:
Thanks for the update. I'm glad you found the answer for your overheating. Unfortunately for me I have already replaced those 3 items including using a Hayden severe duty fan clutch. I did however use the 187 degree thermostat instead of the 180 degree that you used. Maybe I should install another Hayden fan clutch, radiator cap and thermostat just in case the slight chance that I might have gotten a defective one. My problem sounds slightly different however because I can hear my fan clutch turn on about 224-235 degrees. Thanks again, Jeff.
oh yeah, does your fan clutch roar for the first 30-60 seconds afer a cold start? If not, the fan clutch is NOT working properly and needs replaced. the thermostat can be tested in your kitchen using a small pot of boiling water and an oven thermometer. Take your radiator cap to your regular mechanic to be tested. That way you don't replace good parts with good parts.
