I just purchased a 2007 Itasca Spirit 25F which is 30amp. I've tripped the breaker once already using a blow dryer while the AC unit was running. I've also been told by my neighbors here in my RV park that I will most certainly trip it if I try to use the convection oven while the AC is on.I can adapt to the limitations this presents but would prefer to avoid it if possible...I am wondering if it is feasible to upgrade to 50amp or install a separate 20amp circuit to service the AC unit alone and plug it in separately to shore power (which a neighbor suggested).(I searched the forums for this topic but couldn't find it, so apologize if this has been addressed before).Any help/advice would be most appreciated!Sue

Replies'll be interesting. I've thought the same thing. The advantages are clear. Problems are at least that we'd need a second or different 120V panel (breaker box) to serve the other 120V "leg" that makes up the second branch of the 50A service. Some of the (forgive me if I use wrong terminology) "primary" wiring (shore tie, main feed into breaker box) would have to be upgraded.That's all do-able. I'm more concerned that a 30A coach just doesn't have the branch wiring to spread 50A service across enough outlets to take advantage of it. That's when you think of say, Coffee Maker and Toaster. They might be plugged into different OUTLETS, but are more than likely to be fed by same WIRE and same Breaker. And if that branch is 15A, we should not up the breaker to 20A.We have a 15000A/C and 1000W microwave. Our 30A will sometimes trip using just those two (plus yes, the Converter). So far we just do Load Shedding. If A/C is running, only one other high load AC appliance: Micro, Toaster, Coffee, Hair Dryer, Water Heater. That isn't as bad as it sounds except for forgetting. For example, we often turn A/C off during a meal, so we turn the Water Heater on. By the time we want the A/C back, there's hot water for the dishes. But if it's a peak day, water heater on LPG is the only option.

Sue, In the RV world, 50amp service is more than 30 + 20. Changing an existing system from 30 (5-30) to 50 (14-50) would be a significant tear up and expensive if you did not do it yourself. (You actually could.) The plan to separate the A/C unit and run it to another 15~20 receptacle is better, but without digging around in the unit, I cannot say how hard that would be. Many dual A/C units are shipped with this arrangement in place. Matt

How long does it take to dry your hair?We have had a 30 amp RV now for 7 years (2007 Winnebago Outlook 31C). To use a blow dryer, you HAVE to turn off the A/C and the electric water heater element. It is only for a few minutes though, so it isn't an imposition.We also have to turn them off to use the convection/microwave WITH the convection feature. If we just use the microwave function, only, we have never had a problem. (Actually, we don't have to turn off the water heater to use the convection/microwave. Winnebago wired the water heater and the convection/microwave to the same breaker throught an ATS. If the microwave is not running, the water heater has power. If we start the microwave, the ATS kills power to the water heater automatically. But we still have to turn off the A/C if using the convection feature.)As far as a separate line to shore power, it would be easier to just run an extension cord out the window to the pedestal to power the blow dryer.

Upgrade to 50amp?No.It's the nature of the RV beast. Plugging in the hair dryer being the one culprit for blowing a breaker when the air is on.When the ac is on you can NOT plug in a hair dryer, toaster, micro or sometimes even a coffee pot. You just LEARN not to do it. The longer you RV the more it will become something you do without even thinking.'Everyone' that owns an RV has the exact same problem. Owners with 50 amp have the same problem also when plugging in too many things at one time. These RV's are not your 200 amp panel in your stick home that you are accustom to! :W

LOL.....It takes me about 3 minutes to blow dry my hair....and no...it is not an inconvenience to shut off the AC while doing this. My AC runs fine with my coffee pot on and I can set the microwave for a 2-3 minute run without tripping the breaker. I generally don't leave my water heater on. I've been RVing for over 15 years and I too have learned how to adapt to such things and its not a big deal.What I probably should have stated more clearly is that I AM wanting to use the convection oven for baking but don't want to have to shut down the AC for a 30-40 minute stretch while I do that. It gets hot in Tucson...and yes....I could avoid baking/roasting in the summer time....but I don't want to have to. This was the basis of my original question.Thanks,Sue

Upgrade to 50amp? | Good Sam Community

bsinmich
Explorer
Aug 08, 2014
In simple terms 50 amp service is a misnomer. It is actually 2 50 amp circuits for a total of 100 amps. I have never had a problem with having to turn anything off or blowing a circuit breaker.
time2roll
Nomad
Aug 08, 2014
20a single circuit load shed is just $81 to choose between water and microwave for example.
pianotuna
Nomad III
Aug 08, 2014
Hi,

Find the breaker that is for the convection oven. Put a pig tail in the breaker box that goes to a female outlet. Break the link and run an Aux 20 amp (#12 wire) to one side. Put a male plug on the supply to the oven. Choose to run it as OEM or on the Aux. Just plug in the side you wish.

Bonus in winter time you can use that 20 amp for a 1500 watt heater.

GoalstoDreams wrote:
What I probably should have stated more clearly is that I AM wanting to use the convection oven for baking but don't want to have to shut down the AC for a 30-40 minute stretch while I do that. It gets hot in Tucson...and yes....I could avoid baking/roasting in the summer time....but I don't want to have to. This was the basis of my original question.
pianotuna
Nomad III
Aug 08, 2014
Hi Sue,

A 50 amp service gives access to 12000 watts. It would be possible to badly design the system with all the heavy loads on one leg--but it is unlikely. On 50 amps you could run up to six air conditioners.

If folks really wanted to pay for it, a 30 amp could be equipped with load shedding technology--so that the water heater (for example) would only run when there was enough current to support it. I do my own load shedding.

The problem is that such devices are not cheap--and difficult to trouble shoot when they do "go wrong".

I'll stick to my OEM 30, the two auxiliary shore power cords and my boost technology inverter.

The most I use is about 5500 watts in the wild west winter of -40.

GoalstoDreams wrote:

The real question, however.....and it boggles my mind....is why they still design RVs with electrical components that cannot be supported simultaneously by even 50amp service (let alone 30amp)...with all the technological advances in the world, you'd think they could figure this out......and I don't expect an answer, mind you..this was purely rhetorical....; )

Thanks again everyone for all your help!

Sue
map40
Explorer
Aug 07, 2014
install a second shore power and buy a 50amp to 30+30 adapter. you willhave plenty of power
GoalstoDreams
Explorer
Aug 06, 2014
Wow...thanks everyone for the great ideas....looks like I have lots to think about as well as lots of options. I'm glad to know there are others who have found a work-around. I get to benefit from others' brainstorming/trial and error.

The real question, however.....and it boggles my mind....is why they still design RVs with electrical components that cannot be supported simultaneously by even 50amp service (let alone 30amp)...with all the technological advances in the world, you'd think they could figure this out......and I don't expect an answer, mind you..this was purely rhetorical....; ).....this question ranks right up there with why RV manufacturers still build coaches with decals....sigh.

Thanks again everyone for all your help!

Sue
pianotuna
Nomad III
Aug 06, 2014
Hi,

Lots of us add an additional shore power cord. I have the 30 amp OEM, 20 amp, and 15 amp auxiliary shore power cords. I use simple male and female plugs so I can switch back to the OEM configuration.

Another idea, for shore use items, may be to add a largish inverter that has a dedicated outlet. I have one such outlet installed in the kitchen, so that I can use more than 30 amps for as long as the batteries will run the inverter.

Going to a true 30 amp rewire may require surface mounted wiring which will look not too nice.
Ductape_Dave
Explorer
Aug 06, 2014
I installed a duplex outlet and broke off the jumper so I could have one outlet on the MH power and the other outlet I have a 12ga cord that I use on posts that have the extra 120v outlet so I can plug in the hair dryer or heater without drawing on the 30 amp service when available. It was an inexpensive way to solve the problem for me.
D_E_Bishop
Explorer
Aug 06, 2014
Bobbo wrote:
GoalstoDreams wrote:
What I probably should have stated more clearly is that I AM wanting to use the convection oven for baking but don't want to have to shut down the AC for a 30-40 minute stretch while I do that. It gets hot in Tucson...and yes....I could avoid baking/roasting in the summer time....but I don't want to have to. This was the basis of my original question.

Grin, that is a different discussion.

I think the easiest way is to leave your current electrical system untouched (with the exception below). Get another 120v breaker box (small) and run a 30 foot 12g cord to it with a 15 amp plug on the end. Run a wire from the new breaker to a new ATS (that switches both HOT and NEUTRAL in case the outlets on the pedestal are not on the same circuit) on the Normally Open side. Move the wire from your current breaker that goes to the convection/microwave to the other side of the ATS, the Normally Closed side. Then run a wire from the ATS to the convection/microwave.

If the new cord is not plugged in, the convection/microwave runs off RV power just as it does now. If you plug the new cord in, the ATS switches the power for the convection/microwave (both HOT and NEUTRAL) to the new circuit and it is run without the RV's power grid.

Instead of a new ATS, you can get a DPDT (double pole double throw) switch that lets you manually switch both the HOT and NEUTRAL wires with a flip of the switch. However, that would require 2 steps, plug in the new cord AND flip the switch. Forgetting to flip the switch leaves the oven on RV power even though you plugged in the second cord.

I agree with GoalsToDreams, My first post was quick answer and was directed to converting to a 50 amp service. I just sat down and drew out a circuit staying with a 30 amp but being able to use the 50 amp outlet. It is a little more work than Goals idea but achives the same goal. I thought about a double pole CB box with a 4-#10 cable connected to 20 amp and 30 amp circuit breakers and using a transfer switch to switch between using the original power cord and the new one. Cost about a hundred dollars more but no dog bone to use a fifty amp outlet.

I'll clean up the drawing and post it later today.
Bobbo
Explorer II
Aug 06, 2014
GoalstoDreams wrote:
What I probably should have stated more clearly is that I AM wanting to use the convection oven for baking but don't want to have to shut down the AC for a 30-40 minute stretch while I do that. It gets hot in Tucson...and yes....I could avoid baking/roasting in the summer time....but I don't want to have to. This was the basis of my original question.

Grin, that is a different discussion.

I think the easiest way is to leave your current electrical system untouched (with the exception below). Get another 120v breaker box (small) and run a 30 foot 12g cord to it with a 15 amp plug on the end. Run a wire from the new breaker to a new ATS (that switches both HOT and NEUTRAL in case the outlets on the pedestal are not on the same circuit) on the Normally Open side. Move the wire from your current breaker that goes to the convection/microwave to the other side of the ATS, the Normally Closed side. Then run a wire from the ATS to the convection/microwave.

If the new cord is not plugged in, the convection/microwave runs off RV power just as it does now. If you plug the new cord in, the ATS switches the power for the convection/microwave (both HOT and NEUTRAL) to the new circuit and it is run without the RV's power grid.

Instead of a new ATS, you can get a DPDT (double pole double throw) switch that lets you manually switch both the HOT and NEUTRAL wires with a flip of the switch. However, that would require 2 steps, plug in the new cord AND flip the switch. Forgetting to flip the switch leaves the oven on RV power even though you plugged in the second cord.