I had bought a 1988 Fleetwood Tioga a couple of years ago, and we loved it for the 1st month. After about 35 days we were driving back from a weekend camping trip and on the interstate we hear a boom. We pull over and shut off the engine. It would not start back up. Fast forward, the engine bar cracked and the engine needed to be replaced. We ended up paying 10,000 to replace (over how much we payed for the RV).So my question is, what should I look for this time around? We need an upgrade because we have grown out of our Tioga. We are looking at a 1993 Winnebago Brave now. What should we ask? What should we look for? It is sold as is so how can I get a mechanic to look at it? I do not want a lemon again, and since this is a 20 year old RV I want to make sure my descion is good and we do not get a bad RV again. This RV is $2000 below its low retail value for the NADA guide pricing value. They said it was because of a cracked windshield. Thank you!EDIT--------------------------------We want to make sure this RV will last a lot of miles. We plan to bring it from New Jersey to New Mexico over the summer.

The "sold as is where is" just means if you buy it, you're buying it in the condition that it's in where it sits. It DOES NOT mean you can't have a mechanic look at it so you can determine if you want to buy it as is. The current owner could say no to the mechanic, but the as is where is doesn't mean that.What is the "engine bar" that cracked?I'd check to see if a new windshield is still available and the cost. The next biggest cost you (should) will have if tires and batteries, check how old they are. Other than having a mechanic look at the engine and transmission, you've got the experience to test everything else yourself.Bill

The engine was replaced years before we bought it. It was not properly secured and the bar holding it cracked. It broke the engine in the process.

Mobile RV services usually offer an inspection for pre-purchase. However on a motor you'll want to hook it to a diagnostic scope. So will might have to take in to a shop. If you meant the block cracked I don't believe that could be predicted unless they put something in the oil to hide damage. That's what a mobile mechanic might catch. When I did mine it cost me $200, he took over 2 hours going over everything. He was very comprehensive. He did have a portable diagnostic scope, charged an additional $50 to hookup and check the engine.

There are a lot of things that can cause an engine to fail that an experienced mechanic will not find short of tearing the engine down. That said, of course there are also a number of clues a mechanic can look for with an external inspection. Just don't expect any guarantees...

Besides just the engine what should I look for both interior and exterior? Anything I want to ask the dealer about and if anything works? What should I test? What should the mechanic defiantly look for?

Upgrading to a Class A... What should I look out for?

18 Replies

gemert
Explorer
May 10, 2015
alexmmamm wrote:
I know that the price they offered (over the phone which I believe is rare) was 6,000 while the website list price was 14,000. Hey says because of a broken windshield.

I asked about leaks and was told it has a previous leak but was completly fixed, but there is visible damage.

This is looking worse and worse. I think you should look elsewhere but only you know what kind of risk you are willing to accept. Good luck.
Rollnhome
Explorer
May 10, 2015
Then it is not completely fixed.
alexmmamm
Explorer
May 10, 2015
I know that the price they offered (over the phone which I believe is rare) was 6,000 while the website list price was 14,000. Hey says because of a broken windshield.

I asked about leaks and was told it has a previous leak but was completly fixed, but there is visible damage.
gemert
Explorer
May 10, 2015
alexmmamm wrote:
Any things you want to look out for on a 20+ year RV, that is not super obvious?
look for water stains. Even old ones could mean trouble. Look for screws with rusty heads. They indicate water where it shouldn't be. Delamination on fiberglass surfaces.
Executive45
Explorer III
May 10, 2015
Check the tire date codes regardless of the condition of the tires, if it's a diesel, pull the engine sheets, step by step make sure everything works as designed. Note any "issues", decide if you can live with those issues and assign a 'value' to each issue...then, make your offer.....Dennis
alexmmamm
Explorer
May 10, 2015
Any things you want to look out for on a 20+ year RV, that is not super obvious?
1BryNelson
Explorer
May 10, 2015
No I'm sorry I don't have it anymore. Looked but no and I deleted the email. That was 3 yrs ago for me, must not have put in MoHo when I went full time.
The link above doesn't work for the inspectors.
Look up local mobile RV Repair, from what I remember it looked like something that might be an industry standard form.
And yes to jplant4, no checklist is fully comprehensive, but they are good starting places.
jplante4
Explorer II
May 10, 2015
It's not enough to have a checklist - you need to know what to look for. Find an inspector here.

www.http://rvinspection.com/
gemert
Explorer
May 10, 2015
alexmmamm wrote:
1BryNelson wrote:
My guy had a 4 page checklist he filled out. Had alot of notes written in places provided as well as on the backs. One of the selling points, they offered on first call to email me a copy of the form they use.

Do you have that checklist?

Look at the "stickys" on this and other forums in the Class A sections. There are several out there.
alexmmamm
Explorer
May 10, 2015
1BryNelson wrote:
My guy had a 4 page checklist he filled out. Had alot of notes written in places provided as well as on the backs. One of the selling points, they offered on first call to email me a copy of the form they use.

Do you have that checklist?

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Upgrading to a Class A... What should I look out for?

18 Replies

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