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alexmmamm's avatar
alexmmamm
Explorer
May 09, 2015

Upgrading to a Class A... What should I look out for?

I had bought a 1988 Fleetwood Tioga a couple of years ago, and we loved it for the 1st month. After about 35 days we were driving back from a weekend camping trip and on the interstate we hear a boom. We pull over and shut off the engine. It would not start back up. Fast forward, the engine bar cracked and the engine needed to be replaced. We ended up paying 10,000 to replace (over how much we payed for the RV).

So my question is, what should I look for this time around? We need an upgrade because we have grown out of our Tioga. We are looking at a 1993 Winnebago Brave now.

What should we ask? What should we look for? It is sold as is so how can I get a mechanic to look at it? I do not want a lemon again, and since this is a 20 year old RV I want to make sure my descion is good and we do not get a bad RV again.

This RV is $2000 below its low retail value for the NADA guide pricing value. They said it was because of a cracked windshield.

Thank you!

EDIT
--------------------------------

We want to make sure this RV will last a lot of miles. We plan to bring it from New Jersey to New Mexico over the summer.
Class A

18 Replies

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  • lj2654's avatar
    lj2654
    Explorer
    May 09, 2015
    have someone experienced look at it and if it is $ head down the road....better spending a few dollars ahead than many $ after
  • BobandShaz's avatar
    BobandShaz
    Explorer
    May 09, 2015
    1BryNelson wrote:
    Mobile RV services usually offer an inspection for pre-purchase. However on a motor you'll want to hook it to a diagnostic scope. So will might have to take in to a shop. If you meant the block cracked I don't believe that could be predicted unless they put something in the oil to hide damage. That's what a mobile mechanic might catch. When I did mine it cost me $200, he took over 2 hours going over everything. He was very comprehensive. He did have a portable diagnostic scope, charged an additional $50 to hookup and check the engine.


    MONEY WELL SPENT...
  • 1BryNelson's avatar
    1BryNelson
    Explorer
    May 09, 2015
    My guy had a 4 page checklist he filled out. Had alot of notes written in places provided as well as on the backs. One of the selling points, they offered on first call to email me a copy of the form they use.
  • alexmmamm's avatar
    alexmmamm
    Explorer
    May 09, 2015
    Besides just the engine what should I look for both interior and exterior? Anything I want to ask the dealer about and if anything works? What should I test? What should the mechanic defiantly look for?
  • Dutch_12078's avatar
    Dutch_12078
    Explorer III
    May 09, 2015
    There are a lot of things that can cause an engine to fail that an experienced mechanic will not find short of tearing the engine down. That said, of course there are also a number of clues a mechanic can look for with an external inspection. Just don't expect any guarantees...
  • 1BryNelson's avatar
    1BryNelson
    Explorer
    May 09, 2015
    Mobile RV services usually offer an inspection for pre-purchase. However on a motor you'll want to hook it to a diagnostic scope. So will might have to take in to a shop. If you meant the block cracked I don't believe that could be predicted unless they put something in the oil to hide damage. That's what a mobile mechanic might catch. When I did mine it cost me $200, he took over 2 hours going over everything. He was very comprehensive. He did have a portable diagnostic scope, charged an additional $50 to hookup and check the engine.
  • alexmmamm's avatar
    alexmmamm
    Explorer
    May 09, 2015
    The engine was replaced years before we bought it. It was not properly secured and the bar holding it cracked. It broke the engine in the process.
  • Trackrig's avatar
    Trackrig
    Explorer II
    May 09, 2015
    The "sold as is where is" just means if you buy it, you're buying it in the condition that it's in where it sits. It DOES NOT mean you can't have a mechanic look at it so you can determine if you want to buy it as is. The current owner could say no to the mechanic, but the as is where is doesn't mean that.

    What is the "engine bar" that cracked?

    I'd check to see if a new windshield is still available and the cost. The next biggest cost you (should) will have if tires and batteries, check how old they are. Other than having a mechanic look at the engine and transmission, you've got the experience to test everything else yourself.

    Bill

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