Washing full body paint
Our new Newmar motor home has full body paint. We've been told not to use the long handled car/boat wash brush that we have in the past since it can scratch the surface. I believe that a lambswool pad...
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Using a wallyfworld brush will damage the clear coat. People "THINK" there are no negative effects, but there is. Micro scratching is cumulative and then a few years down the road you wonder why your paint looks so dull. That's because you've been adding scratches each time you wash it incorrectly or use some inferior washing product.
IF you want to use a brush, the only brush to use is a Montanna Boar hair brush. It's expensive at $90 but it will last you a lifetime with very minimal harm to the clear coat.
Employ the 2 bucket wash method and the boar hair brush and you'll be doing minimal damage to your clear coat. FYI all washing does some damage, you're just trying to minimize before the paint needs to be corrected. Anytime you rub something on the paint to wash it, you're causing damage.
Just remember people think they are doing no damage to there clear coat, but they just don't know what to look for. Just take a flash light and point it at the paint at an angle, that's when the damage becomes evident. We've all seen those coaches that when the sun hits it at an angle the swirl marks are everywhere.
One washing from the dealer and I can see the damage he put in my paint, that's after I told him not to wash it.
I must say for vehicles that are this expensive it surprises me that a good 98% of the recommendations on caring for the paint are just flat out wrong and damaging. I've been detailing cars for 40 years, which includes many show cars and I would never treat the most expensive vehicle I've owned any different for the sake of speed.
The first thing you want to do is get a quality wax or sealant on the paint. Use a quality PH balance car wash shampoo.
Stay away from that Mary poppins waterless wash junk. It's a gimmick and nearly always used improperly.
Just know that there can be issues with micro fibers. There are many grades of micro fiber and some micro fiber really clings to debris. You don't want to get a cheap micro fiber that holds onto a piece of dirt and you drag it all over the paint.
A good lambswool pad or the boar hair brush would be the best. I use the boar hair brush on an extendable paint pole and then use a good quality lambswool for the parts I can reach. This is after I've rinsed, sprayed with a foam cannon, rinsed again, foam cannon again, then the brush. Flushing off as much of the debris is THE MOST IMPORTANT PART, followed by the 2nd most important part which is the 2 bucket method (using one bucket to rinse off debris washing implement then another bucket for dipping in suds).
IF you want to use a brush, the only brush to use is a Montanna Boar hair brush. It's expensive at $90 but it will last you a lifetime with very minimal harm to the clear coat.
Employ the 2 bucket wash method and the boar hair brush and you'll be doing minimal damage to your clear coat. FYI all washing does some damage, you're just trying to minimize before the paint needs to be corrected. Anytime you rub something on the paint to wash it, you're causing damage.
Just remember people think they are doing no damage to there clear coat, but they just don't know what to look for. Just take a flash light and point it at the paint at an angle, that's when the damage becomes evident. We've all seen those coaches that when the sun hits it at an angle the swirl marks are everywhere.
One washing from the dealer and I can see the damage he put in my paint, that's after I told him not to wash it.
I must say for vehicles that are this expensive it surprises me that a good 98% of the recommendations on caring for the paint are just flat out wrong and damaging. I've been detailing cars for 40 years, which includes many show cars and I would never treat the most expensive vehicle I've owned any different for the sake of speed.
The first thing you want to do is get a quality wax or sealant on the paint. Use a quality PH balance car wash shampoo.
Stay away from that Mary poppins waterless wash junk. It's a gimmick and nearly always used improperly.
Just know that there can be issues with micro fibers. There are many grades of micro fiber and some micro fiber really clings to debris. You don't want to get a cheap micro fiber that holds onto a piece of dirt and you drag it all over the paint.
A good lambswool pad or the boar hair brush would be the best. I use the boar hair brush on an extendable paint pole and then use a good quality lambswool for the parts I can reach. This is after I've rinsed, sprayed with a foam cannon, rinsed again, foam cannon again, then the brush. Flushing off as much of the debris is THE MOST IMPORTANT PART, followed by the 2nd most important part which is the 2 bucket method (using one bucket to rinse off debris washing implement then another bucket for dipping in suds).
