Forum Discussion
Old-Biscuit
Aug 17, 2016Explorer III
OK lets clear up a few things........
Atwood doesn't use an anode rod.
If it has one it is an aftermarket 'take your money' gimmick
Pick up a new Atwood Nylon drain plug.....nylon because tank has aluminum threads
Ceramic insulator is an isolator so 'flame proving' signal doesn't short to ground.
Replace the spark electrode assembly (make sure high tension wire makes tight/clean connection on new electrode AND at transformer on circuit board)
Set spark gap at 1/8" and make sure rod is positioned so flame engulfs it when it lights off
Spark electrode assembly mounting screw provides ground contact so make sure it is tight/clean
Replace t-stat/ECO and thermal fuse.......dripping T&P has corroded those contacts/connections
Make sure burner tube is aligned so gas flow is down center of tube and flame spreader on end of tube is square/parallel to end of tube
(if tube is crooked gas will bounce down tube and not properly mix with the air)
Atwood doesn't use an anode rod.
If it has one it is an aftermarket 'take your money' gimmick
Pick up a new Atwood Nylon drain plug.....nylon because tank has aluminum threads
Ceramic insulator is an isolator so 'flame proving' signal doesn't short to ground.
Replace the spark electrode assembly (make sure high tension wire makes tight/clean connection on new electrode AND at transformer on circuit board)
Set spark gap at 1/8" and make sure rod is positioned so flame engulfs it when it lights off
Spark electrode assembly mounting screw provides ground contact so make sure it is tight/clean
Replace t-stat/ECO and thermal fuse.......dripping T&P has corroded those contacts/connections
Make sure burner tube is aligned so gas flow is down center of tube and flame spreader on end of tube is square/parallel to end of tube
(if tube is crooked gas will bounce down tube and not properly mix with the air)
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