Weight calculations for ClassA

wtmtnhiker wrote:
Looking at a nice class A motorhome that I think was built marginally too heavy for the chassis that's it's on. UVW=20605, GVW=22000 and GCVW=26000. My Chevy equinox that I want to tow weighs almost 4000.
Unless I'm figuring wrong we have 1400 lbs we can put in the coach rounded up from 1395 (GVW-UVW). Between my wife and I we weigh 300 so now we have 1100. I do allot of dry camping so a full tank (70 gal) of fresh water would be 560 leaving 540 and a full tank of propane (19.5 gal) would be 157 leaving 383 I can put in the coach. I'm thinking 383 wouldn't be enough with food, clothes, tools, etc. Do I have this right?

pretty much but until you actually weigh the coach you're looking at you won't know for sure. make it a condition of the sale to get certified weights for each axle (at a minimum!). why? because a coach can have a total weight that is less than or equal to the GVWR but still be overweight on one axle. I know this from personal experience.

(btw, the GVR is the actual weight of the vehicle whereas the GVWR (gross vehicle weight rating is the total amount of weight the vehicle chassis can support including itself. the same applies to GCWR/GCW.)

IMHO the RV industry has made understanding weights and weight ratings far too difficult and confusing. all you really need to know is the payload (how much weight you can add) for each axle over and above the GAWR (gross axle weight rating).

- be sure the coach is empty (it's best if the fuel tank(s) are full but you can always calculate the missing weight onto the rear axle), go to a certified scale and get individual axle weights. that's your empty weight.

- compare the actual axle weights to the GAWR (gross axle weight rating0 for that axle. the difference is the total amount of weight you can add to that axle in the form of food, fresh water, clothing, supplies, pets, people, etc. that's your payload.

when it comes to towing...in general the maximum amount of weight you can safely tow will be the lesser of the following:

• the GCWR (gross combination weight rating) of the MH minus the actual weight of the MH as it is loaded for travel (includes fuel, fresh water, food, clothing, people, pets, supplies, etc.)

• the weight rating of your tow bar

• the weight rating of your hitch

this is why it's vital to know what your MH weighs as it is loaded and configure for travel before choosing a toad. Your MH will not collapse if it is overloaded but you will experience handling issues as well as longer braking distances and accelerated wear on suspension, brakes, steering, etc.

good luck.