What did you do to your Class A MH today???
This is always a fun thread to watch, so I thought I would start one here.
Forum Discussion
Well gang,
I had some blocks that I use for the Jacks to they not only have a larger foot print on what could be softer soil/grass or even maybe soft/hot pavement but, also the jacks don't have to travel down so far and gives better protection against "leaning" and possible tweaking of them.
But, those blocks were a bit heavy and, I'm already at the max on the rig anyway so, I knocked out some taller but, a bit smaller in lateral dimensions. They're at about 9" x 11" x 5". They're made from two, 4"x6" sections that are side by side and, sandwiched by two, 3/4" ACX plywood. They are glued and screwed with Gorilla wood glue and, 2", #10, plated, squared-drive flat head screws.
I then sprayed two coats of sanding sealer and three of clear lacquer. I know Urethane is a much better coating for those but, I hate waiting for Urethane to dry. It takes forever. Anyway, these are considerably lighter and do the job.
Scott
I had some blocks that I use for the Jacks to they not only have a larger foot print on what could be softer soil/grass or even maybe soft/hot pavement but, also the jacks don't have to travel down so far and gives better protection against "leaning" and possible tweaking of them.
But, those blocks were a bit heavy and, I'm already at the max on the rig anyway so, I knocked out some taller but, a bit smaller in lateral dimensions. They're at about 9" x 11" x 5". They're made from two, 4"x6" sections that are side by side and, sandwiched by two, 3/4" ACX plywood. They are glued and screwed with Gorilla wood glue and, 2", #10, plated, squared-drive flat head screws.
I then sprayed two coats of sanding sealer and three of clear lacquer. I know Urethane is a much better coating for those but, I hate waiting for Urethane to dry. It takes forever. Anyway, these are considerably lighter and do the job.
Scott
