What did you do to your Class A MH today???

JimM68 wrote:
Mike, I have one of those also. Care to share the specifics of the cylinder you used?

I bought the parts from Amazon. The part numbers are as follows:

RV Designer G22 20" gas strut with 20 pound charge.
RV Designer G825 3/4" gas strut brackets. (2 per package/1 pck req.)

Hope that helps.

Mike.

Mike, I have one of those also. Care to share the specifics of the cylinder you used?

As for those lucky enough to be able to play with their motorhomes in the winter, POO!
A few weeks ago I drove past the storage lot. Then I called them and asked why they didn't plow? The next day somebody was playing with a bobcat clearing snow!
So we pulled out and went to Pensacola!

4 days down, 2 days back, 5 nights in a beachfront full hookup 50 amp campsite = priceless.
Everything on and in and under the Knight worked as designed.

One more small item I wanted to complete over the weekend on our motorcoach before the start of the new RVing season. I decided to finally replace that poorly designed door mechanism that Monaco uses. I don't know why they didn't get with the times like most every other manufacturer but they insisted on sticking with a poor out of date scissor type mechanism to hold the door open as well as act as a stop.

There have been a lot of write-ups over the years and I finally decided last fall that I had tightened up the scissor assembly for the last time and ordered the parts to convert it to the gas strut style.

Here is the only part where I really had to deviate from some of the other write-ups, my Dynasty had the small molded drip rail over the entrance door so it needed a small amount of trimming to clear the swing of the gas strut.


I then started measuring where I wanted to the bracket to mount on the coach. I ended up 4" back from the front of the door molding to the center of the first hole in the bracket. I also drilled a third hole in both brackets to give a little extra support.


I then opened the door to 90-degrees and marked where the bracket needed to be on the door itself. Then drilled and installed it.


This is what it looks like with the door closed.


Next I wanted to machine a couple of covers to cover the openings of the two OEM mounting brackets.

I used a pieced of .125" aluminum, measured, machined, drilled and countersunk the screw holes for the coach mounted piece.


I then used a piece of .188" thick aluminum that I flycut to flatten out, measured the bolt holes, drilled and countersunk for the rivets using a .375" end mill.


I made the part slightly oversize to completely cover the square recessed hole in the door itself. The part measures 1.5" x 3.0" overall dimensions.


I then flipped it over in the mill vise and machined the border to the exact size of the OEM bracket. This will allow the cover to orientate itself down into the recess of the door.


Cover installed on the coach inside the doorjamb.


Cover installed up on top of the door into the recess of the OEM bracket. Sadly this cover will never be seen up on top of the door. But I will know it is there and what it looks like.


All in all the complete job was quite easy and I highly recommend it to anyone who owns a Monaco coach with the scissor style door support mechanism.

Also not shown in the above pictures is after I completed the installation I touched up the heads of the six screws with some black paint to blend into the mounting brackets. It actually looks like something that should have come out of the factory this way.

Mike.

Getting ready to head out tomorrow for a long weekend in Centralia,Wa to do some collectible and outlet store shopping. Also gonna try to get out to Ariel to Willapa Hills Creamery to get some excellent goat bleu cheese. Did some loading and started up the diesel to check out all the systems and while I had it running, just decided to try the gennie which hasn't wanted to start. Hit the preheat for 30 seconds and then the start button and it started right up. WOW. unplugged from shore power,dropped the temp on the A/Cs,hit the water heater switch and exercised the gennie for about 1/2 hour.shut it down, let it cool and then tried to start it again. Nope, no way.

My steer tires showed up yesterday so I was able to get them installed and torqued onto the coach. I then took her for about a 15-mile test drive. Nice!!!

Have an appointment this afternoon to have the alignment double checked after making the alterations.

Mike.

It's a basement heat pump and only has one zone. If it doesn't start the propane kicks in. I know I had the right heat source selected, far right on the selector switch. There was no high current draw as there should have been when the compressor kicked in. The unit was new 2012. I'll do a few more checks tomorrow using the generator. It won't run on the shore power where it is plugged in as the run is too long--a couple of hundred feet and the start draw drops the voltage to much. Just hope the mice didn't chew through any wires.

Canadian Rainbirds wrote:
Started the generator, when it took over from the shore power I switched on the heatpump. Heat pump didn't start, the propane furnace took over instead. Too cold for the heat pump? About 7 or 8 C (45 F or so).

Then drained and refilled the dehumidifiers, and went out to check the batteries for water. They took about a litre (4 GCs) Glad I hadn't left them much longer.

Back inside went to wipe up a small spill on the counter--the paper towels are nothing more than a pile of shredded paper! :E Mice!

A quick look around didn't turn up any more sign, tomorrow we'll put the slides out and have a good look in all the cupboards and cupboards. I'll also see what I can of the heat pump wiring.

Shut the gen down--no shore power! Down at the breaker box the GFI had tripped. It reset without a problem.

Sigh.

At 45 degrees the heat pumps should start and still be effective putting out some heat. Maybe you did not set the thermostat right. Maybe you set it at furnace thinking you had set it for either zone 1 which is the rear heat pump or zone 2 which is the front heat pump. Plus you got to set it where it says heat pump.

Started the generator, when it took over from the shore power I switched on the heatpump. Heat pump didn't start, the propane furnace took over instead. Too cold for the heat pump? About 7 or 8 C (45 F or so).

Then drained and refilled the dehumidifiers, and went out to check the batteries for water. They took about a litre (4 GCs) Glad I hadn't left them much longer.

Back inside went to wipe up a small spill on the counter--the paper towels are nothing more than a pile of shredded paper! :E Mice!

A quick look around didn't turn up any more sign, tomorrow we'll put the slides out and have a good look in all the cupboards and cupboards. I'll also see what I can of the heat pump wiring.

Shut the gen down--no shore power! Down at the breaker box the GFI had tripped. It reset without a problem.

Sigh.

Replaced the bushings for the anti-sway bar. Start to finish time for the project was 45 minutes. I was going to move the frame connection point and found that the original owner had replaced the OEM anti-sway bar with a Roadmaster anti-sway bar.

Wow! ZMotor!!! I just went to my rig in winter storage, through 2 feet of snow, opened her (Him ?) up, started it up and cracked open a beer. Outside temp was 2! While the engine ran I did my usual check of the top of each slide looking for water intrusion and in cabinets and around the floors for any sign of mickey and company! Let it run 30 minutes, finished with the beer, lock it up till next check 3 to 4 weeks inching to spring and summer.