What to look for in a Class C?

DrewE wrote:

ebaca33 wrote:

Is the fresnel lens that large magnifying glass looking square? My husband liked the one we were intending on buying at CW because it had a straight line of sight.

That's the thing--a plastic panel that is applied to the inside of the window like a decal. It's actually a reducing lens, rather than a magnifying lens, so instead of getting a normal view of a few square feet of sky or the air horn of the semi behind you, you get a smaller view of all that's back there. They're not very good for judging distances (everything looks much farther away than it is) and they aren't too useful at night (due to a lack of spatial clues as to where the vehicle headlights you see are in relation to the road), but they're still a big improvement overall and a most handy gadget for not much more than pocket change.

Ditto this! We love our Fresnel lens. If you have a unit that has a rear window and a straight shot to it from the cab, then this is a decent alternative to a rear view camera. When w bought our RV GPS one of the big features we wanted was the ability to link a camera. We ordered a $14 Fresnel lens from Amazon to use while we researched what camera we wanted...it has been over 2 years and we're happy with just the lens.

Here is are my two cents:

I agree with the side windows in the cabover. Some rigs just have one, others two. These are nice, especially if there is one on each side, for a cross-breeze. I haven't seen any rigs made in the past few years that had a front window, so buying new, that problem should be taken care of. The exception are windows which are an integral part of the fiberglass like the one on the Trend.

One thing that is good to have is a fiberglass cabover cap. This not just protects the seams from water coming in while doing down the road, but does a good job at dealing with rock chips.

Going with a Ford E-450 chassis is better, because it has a wider stance, more fuel, and has a larger weight capacity than the E-350. It also has better brakes.

Factory installed rear camera is a must. Not wireless, but a properly installed wired setup. Side cameras are nice as well.

I want at least 5000 pounds, preferably 7500 for the hitch receiver. This gives me the ability to not just carry some items in a cargo rack, but maybe even have a small trailer.

Underbelly insulation and heating pads. I live in Texas, and even though the temperature is normally above freezing, there are a few days each year where it may be in the low 30s, and a cold snap every few years. Having insulation and heating pads means being able to take a shower and use water as opposed to grabbing the air compressor and having to winterize, then use a motel or bath-house.

If you are buying used, have multiple people check for water damage, be it bubbles in wallpaper, discolerations, smells, soft floor spots, areas around the cabover, and other signs. Find any? Run... it is easier to get a new engine and drivetrain put in than to rebuild a cabover.

Replace tires older than 4 years by date codes for your safety, brake system checked and fluid flushed and changed. Have engine cooling system checked. Run fridge overnight to verify it works in electric and propane modes, run furnace and roof AC using thermostat. Run RV generator with roof AC and microwave on, Have converter/charger and house batteries checked. Try all interior and exterior lights. Open awning and inspect awning fabric. Look for any evidence of water leak/damage. If doable have rig inspected by pro truck mechanic and RV repair specialist. Get written estimates for any repairs/upgrades needed. Drive it for some miles and pay attention to handling and noises. Make sure that length, floor plan and features suit your needs. Don't buy on impulse, know what a fair price is for the brand, year, model, options and condition. Don't buy a warranty, set same money aside for surprises. Read stickies at top of this forum and other similar threads.

ebaca33 wrote:

Is the fresnel lens that large magnifying glass looking square? My husband liked the one we were intending on buying at CW because it had a straight line of sight.

That's the thing--a plastic panel that is applied to the inside of the window like a decal. It's actually a reducing lens, rather than a magnifying lens, so instead of getting a normal view of a few square feet of sky or the air horn of the semi behind you, you get a smaller view of all that's back there. They're not very good for judging distances (everything looks much farther away than it is) and they aren't too useful at night (due to a lack of spatial clues as to where the vehicle headlights you see are in relation to the road), but they're still a big improvement overall and a most handy gadget for not much more than pocket change.

DrewE wrote:

ebaca33 wrote:

Thanks for the ideas! We have a combo thermostat in our trailer and I hadn't thought about checking now that we're shopping again. I am not a big fan of windows over the cab. One of my kids will be sleeping up there and I just don't like the idea of those windows right next to their bed.

One advantage of the overcab windows (particularly the side ones that typically are sliders) is that you can get some nice ventilation in that area with them. Without them, even with a roof vent, it can get kind of stuffy above the cab with the curtain drawn.

I'm not entirely sure what worries you about windows near sleeping kids. You can't, or at least shouldn't, use the overcab bunk for sleeping or whatever while driving for obvious reasons.

Do make sure you check on the cargo carrying capacity (weight capacity, not just storage room). Some class C's leave very, very little carrying capacity. Some old ones even left the factory overloaded before adding any people or supplies or water, but I don't think any relatively modern ones are that bad.

Also check the wheelbase to overall length ratio. If the wheelbase is too short, handling can be problematic. A minimum of around 55% is suggested, if I remember correctly.

With a slide, pay attention to accessibility of things with the slide retracted. I wouldn't want a unit where I had to extend the slide to get into the bathroom or fridge. Ideally, of course, everything would be accessible. (By the same token, make sure the driver's seat can slide back sufficiently for you with the slide retracted!)

A clear line of sight to a back window is nice to have; get one of the stick-on fresnel lenses. A rear view camera works nicely, too.

Good info on the slide, we are looking for a slide so that is good to think about.

I hadn't really thought about the ventilation over the cab. I think we'll look for one with the side windows. It's likely my 13 year old would sleep up there, but I have a couple mischievous little guys. Now that I think about it, we do have a window in the top bunk in our trailer and that hasn't ever been an issue. Oh and my kids would absolutely not be up there while driving :)

Is the fresnel lens that large magnifying glass looking square? My husband liked the one we were intending on buying at CW because it had a straight line of sight.

Since I'm actually buying Class 'C' number 2, this is what was important to me:

A. Floorplan. If you can't live in it, you're not going to like it.

B. CROWNED Roof. My first motorhome has/had a fiberglass roof. Which is great. But it was FLAT. Which was NOT GREAT. There are plenty of 5th wheels and VERY expensive travel trailers w/ a TPO or rubber roof. I'll take a crowned roof w/ gutters ANY day over a flat one w/ fiberglass. Crowned fiberglass would be perfect. I'm getting a crowned TPO.

C. CCC. Check the cargo capacity. The longer you go, the heavier you go. The more creature comforts you get in it, the heavier you go. Modern day yellow CCC stickers allow for fuel and propane, that's it. People, food, water, etc. all go against CCC. Make sure your rig can carry what you need.

D. Read 'C' one more time, and make sure you fully understand it.

The things high on our list when shopping:

- No front cabover window (to avoid the leak issue) We do have side windows, which like DrewE said, are great for ventilation up there. Not sure of the age of your kiddos, but our DS is now 11 and has never been able to do more than pop his head out, they're just too small for him to fit through...if that's your worry.

- Fiberglass roof

- No signs of water damage (as it turns out there was some we missed at the rear window, which turned out to be the upper cyclops brake light...but we got it all dried out and sealed up now)

- Floorplan and space for what we wanted. Our TT was fairly small and didn't have a sofa, that was on our wish list for our C so we would be more comfortable sitting out rainstorms and such. Think about what you wish your TT had or didn't have. What part of your TT floorplan works for you, what would you do differently, that type of thing.

- And then of course the chassis, like Jaycocreek mentioned. You want to make sure the engine is in good shape. Be wary of older units with low mileage. That seems like a creampuff in the car world, but in the RV world that means it has been sitting somewhere for a while and the engine has not been exercised which might cause problems.

- Oh, and tires, be sure to check the age of the tires. If you're not familiar with the date codes on tires, Google how to read it and make sure the tires are recent or plan to buy a new set of 7 (including a new spare)

Happy shopping! We love our C and are very happy with our decision to trade our truck and TT for it.

Is there anything we should look for when looking at used motorhomes?

When I look at Class C motorhomes,I look at them as a pickup and camper,two units.I first check out the chassis as I would buying a pickup truck.Once satisfied with the chassis I turn to the camper part and look for the normal things you would in a pickup camper or trailer.

I just bought another used Class C a week ago and haven't sold my 30ft travel trailer yet.The trailer was just to hard to get into the places I go in Idaho.

Good luck in your choice.

ebaca33 wrote:

Thanks for the ideas! We have a combo thermostat in our trailer and I hadn't thought about checking now that we're shopping again. I am not a big fan of windows over the cab. One of my kids will be sleeping up there and I just don't like the idea of those windows right next to their bed.

One advantage of the overcab windows (particularly the side ones that typically are sliders) is that you can get some nice ventilation in that area with them. Without them, even with a roof vent, it can get kind of stuffy above the cab with the curtain drawn.

I'm not entirely sure what worries you about windows near sleeping kids. You can't, or at least shouldn't, use the overcab bunk for sleeping or whatever while driving for obvious reasons.

Do make sure you check on the cargo carrying capacity (weight capacity, not just storage room). Some class C's leave very, very little carrying capacity. Some old ones even left the factory overloaded before adding any people or supplies or water, but I don't think any relatively modern ones are that bad.

Also check the wheelbase to overall length ratio. If the wheelbase is too short, handling can be problematic. A minimum of around 55% is suggested, if I remember correctly.

With a slide, pay attention to accessibility of things with the slide retracted. I wouldn't want a unit where I had to extend the slide to get into the bathroom or fridge. Ideally, of course, everything would be accessible. (By the same token, make sure the driver's seat can slide back sufficiently for you with the slide retracted!)

A clear line of sight to a back window is nice to have; get one of the stick-on fresnel lenses. A rear view camera works nicely, too.

OFDPOS wrote:
Storage oh and more storage ! We've only had 2 MH so far and both were/is short 23ft and now 25ft. wish it had an electric awning instead of the manual , those legs stick out in the passenger mirror's view.
Have both A/C-Heater on a thermostat, I hate getting up in the middle of the night to turn the A/C off , only to get back up an hour later to turn it back on and so on. Have tried to leave it on low only to have it freeze up (ice up the fan? )
Also factory installed rear view camera , that way its already hard wired in , instead of you having to buy a wireless one and install it.
Preferably no windows at all in overcab bunk area (definitely will leak sooner or later)
Walk around rear bed ! most longer ones will have that anyways !
Alot here like the Ford chassis I've always been a GM person.
Little things like an outside shower, possible even an outside Stereo/TV combo !

I'm sure more will have alot better things to add , but for us when we go bigger the above listed will definitely be on my higher up gotta haves !

Thanks for the ideas! We have a combo thermostat in our trailer and I hadn't thought about checking now that we're shopping again. I am not a big fan of windows over the cab. One of my kids will be sleeping up there and I just don't like the idea of those windows right next to their bed.