Workhorse Opinions

rgatijnet1 wrote:

dezertcamper wrote:

rgatijnet1 wrote:

dezertcamper wrote:

Workhorse W22 chassis did not come with Swaybars. Those big square tubes mounted from leaf spring to leaf spring, Workhorse calls those Stabilizers or a Torsion Tube. Because the WW chassis uses such a long leaf spring to try to give it a smoother ride they chose to add these square stabilizer bars to help with sway that the spring get as they deflect. The sway is more from the springs rocking from side to side. This square tube mounted to each leaf spring was designed to help keep those springs parallel and also attempts to help with sway.


Here is what a authorized Workhorse service dealer said about the sway system under the Workhorse W22 chassis.

"Workhorse did not use a traditional sway bar system. There are 2 stabilizer devices on your chassis and they both look like elongated square bars. These bars are either 2.0 inch on the front or both 2.5" square, depending on the year. The front bar is mounted in between the springs and you can see it mounted below the radiator. The rear bar is mounted behind the differential at the trailing end of the leaf springs. These bars work as torque arms where the side that gets loaded in deflection applies an equal force through the bar in opposition to the force absorbed. What the bar attempts to do is center the roll rate as best as possible and to keep the axle side to side deflection as minimal as possible.

Seems to me that the Workhorse service dealer you posted called them BARS 6 or 7 times, but that is irrelevant.
Since you seem to be in the minority with handling problems with your W chassis perhaps the first thing you should do is have a FOUR wheel alignment done with the thrust angle being checked to make sure that rear axle is in perfect alignment with the center of your coach. There are very few shops that have the equipment to do this but it is worth finding one. I know of ZERO RV shops that have the equipment but many truck alignment shops have the facilities. Then make sure that the front end is aligned with the coach properly loaded for travel and your tires properly inflated. The WH chassis will handle better if the front axle is loaded close to the maximum. If the front axle is light, the coach will sway and wag.
Before you continue to throw money at the chassis, you should take it to a well equipped shop that will check the basic things first before you start adding every aftermarket accessory out there.

Go on to IRV2.com and look under the Workhorse section. You will find more then just me who have not been satisfied with the stock ride of the W22 chassis. While doing research on my ride quality I found that site and found that what I was feeling was not not just me. Trust me when I say I did my research before just throwing money at something. The last place I want to spend money is on my RV. The first fix I did was to install the better valving Bilstein shocks and get it aligned. What we found out was my coach was on the low end of the factory settings in regards to caster. I don't remember what degree shim was added, but is was a few degree's of caster, and that in itself made a big improvement. It was this improvement that had me not do anymore to the front end. I admit I would like to add a front swaybar system, but that is pretty far down on my list of daily life needs or wants. A company called Brazel's RV in Washington is big into the Workhorse chassis stuff. I spoke to them on several occasions and they are the ones who suggested I start with a rear track bar (which was not bought though them) Then later it was my choice to add the rear Hellwig swaybar. This also made a big improvement. I still think the ride quality of my sisters Ford chassis is a bit nicer, but I'm much closer to what their ride quality is vs. before I did my improvements.

BTW I have a Fleetwood Southwind 32. And I will agree different models & brands will ride a little different on the same chassis.

I'm familiar with Jon at Brazels. He prepared my ultrachip but I did not feel anything was needed on my suspension other than switching from the standard Bilstein shocks to Koni FSD's.
Did they check the thrust angle of the rear axle and was your coach loaded completely when the front end alignment was done? Is your front end loaded close to max axle weight? Tire pressures at 100 PSI.

To be 100% honest I dont know all the details of what was done or checked when they first did my alignment. Its been several years and has been done since. But I know there is no adjustment to the rear axle without heavy modifications, and I don't remember paying for any. The alignment was a "4 wheel" alignment which basically they find the center of the rear and adjust the front to match, then adjust toe & caster. Since the first time, its been re-aligned again when I put new tires on, and the only adjustment made was in toe. Yes all adjustment were with the RV fully loaded including fresh water, minus food & cloths,and a course no trailer behind it. I'm way to lazy to empty the RV.

The tire pressure I run is 95 lbs all the way around. As far as weight on the front axle, I dont know? I would assume I'm not close to max, only because 90% of our trips are desert or river, and I'm always towing a trailer.