Thanks, everybody.
I tried pretty much everything suggested.
Disabled lighter version Maps Go - it can't be uninstalled. Tried to install "real" Google Maps, - nope, doesn't install. Probably because Go was still there.
Co-pilot: many more dirt roads than in Here app, starts instantly without internet. One problem - have to pay for voice every year. I will think about it.
Osmand - a tie with Co-pilot: I like topo-like terrain, many dirt roads, urban areas are easier to read than in Co-pilot - nicer background, less cluttered than on Co-pilot. Don't know about voice - looks like there is one, didn't try. One problem - can't pre-plan the route so that it would show the route line, in other words - it promises to get you from A to B but doesn't tell through what roads.
BRMB - nice graphics but I don't see navigation buttons, only a map. At least, in free version.
