"Preferred Source" Do-It-Myself Laptop cells?

I know you've said it's near impossible (or insanely expensive or both) to get stuff shipped to you, but I've had great luck buying refurb'd PCs from Microcenter.

I too needed one with Windows 7 and they're still plentiful.

Something like this might fit your needs Mex:

Clicky

12v in, 19v out, 90w boost converter

That makes the portable battery part easier. Find a NiMh or LiFePo4 "12v" battery to your liking and charge it with one of your 12v chargers.

I have verified the existing corpse is using .006 ampere. Six milliamps. So be it. An external 19 volt battery pack it shall be. It has to be smart meaning intelligently designed. An x factor rectangle dimension with handle. An integral charger would not be worth it. But voltage bandwidth acceptance of the laptop's management system is something I must learn. Lithium has a tight span - NiMH much broader. I am not going to spend money for 16 F-cell NiMH cells until I can get an answer to the voltage issue. The F cells supposedly have a 14000 mah rating but that rating may have the cells far lower than what the laptop will accept. Of course there is the $85 guaranteed original 2200 mah battery on eBay.

I will not spend $400 on a new laptop with 8 cores and a performance speed poorer than this one and suffer an uninterpretable Windows 10 operating system conceived by psychopaths. Add a genuine Windows 7 OP and Office Package and the POS bargain basement laptop is suddenly a 600 dollar expense that operates slower than my Gateway.

Now do I look like I got the word Stupid written ALL acoss my forehead?

Thanks a full TON for those utterly compelling answers!

The encapsulation of Li-Ion batteries (which most of these rechargeables) are made of, don't lend themselves to conventional soldering as the other poster said. The tabs that should be connected to achieve the needed array--have to be spot-welded to accomplish this.

Lithium reacts to metals in many different ways unlike the ones we see in carbon-based cells. The reason it's made of "exotic" material.

The tabs are factory welded to the encapsulation using specialized techniques--some even use lasers.

I tried crimping the tabs on my drill motor battery only to end up having the whole gizmo (drill and battery) in the electronics recycling bin at Best Buy.

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There are things you don't have to know how it works. The main thing is that it works. While some people are studying the roots, others are picking the fruit.
It just depends which end of this you want to get in on.
(Jim Rohn, The Master of Success)

Rebuilding a laptop battery pack sounds like an easy endeavour, but getting around the BS rich minefield isn't so easy in practice.

Finding genuine replacement cells of the right size is the first hurdle. Many may use the "18650" others use a "14440" - the numbers are based on metric case sizes... some use a proprietary size, like my HP battery pack built with batteries that look like a squished 9v, but with a terminal at either end. For the usual reasons, China has flooded the market with junk cells with absurd ratings. Any cell rated more than 2500-3500 mAh is likely junk. The last batch I foolishly bought off ebay were rated at 5000mah. Took one cell apart to see why it sucked so much, there was a tiny battery wired inside, and the rest was empty. Genuine Panasonic cells are the gold standard, LG, Samsung, Toshiba and Sony also make good cells. I don't know how to spot a genuine one, price alone is no help, although it's safe to assume a genuine cell won't be cheap. I've purchased batteries from these guys before, and have not been disappointed by performance Battery Space ... All good, but the price for each cell is much like your $400,000 car example.

Connecting the cells is the next hurdle. They don't take well to conventional soldering, heat from the iron at best will damage parts of the cell like the safety vent or internal electrical bonds, and at worst, cause it to go into a runaway reaction. They need a high current short pulse spot welder.

The last and perhaps most damning hurdle is the authentication, protection and charging board. These are tiny little circuit boards with a multitude of connections and populated with various unlabeled chips. It provides the connection between the laptop and the battery, and also is connected to each cell in the pack for balancing. The board protects the battery from overcharge, overdischarge, and also tampering. Most often there's a chip that acts as a tamper seal, and if it detects anything funny going on, it shuts down the connection between the battery and the laptop. The chip is likely triggered when disconnected from the cells, or when a cell fails, or for any number of other reasons some committee thought sounded good.

In my opinion, building something that delivers 16-18v to the dc input of the laptop is going to be easier than trying to deliver power through the battery connector. However, as you pointed out in previous posts, recharging an external battery isn't that easy, and having to lug it around sucks as well.